Good morning Friends and Family!
I´m all checked in for my evening flight, and my bags are near max-occupancy as I find nooks and crannies into which to stuff my stuff. I always plan to travel light, but never seem to accomplish it!
In an hour, the tourist bus is scheduled to pick me up for a day at a real(ish) estancia, just outside the city. I´m not sure exactly what to expect, but I'm hoping I can learn more about the gaucho. Plus, I´ve heard the bar-be-que is not to be missed!
I´m schedule to go straight to the airport after the excursion, so my next post should be from my humble living room, with my sweet little kitties on my lap!
Love T
Saturday, November 12, 2011
Friday, November 11, 2011
Hangin out at the bus station
Today wasn´t quite the glorious globe trotting day I had imagined... in fact, it was downright dull! Hours of research had assured me the Gaucho Festival in the small town of San Antonio del Agreco was taking place during my time here in Argentina. Further, it was just 2 hours away by public bus, just US$7 or so each way. Fantastic! Adventurous! Wonderful departure from the touristy every-day!
Yep, I should probably stick to the toursty. I arrived at the bus station an hour early for the bus. This is saying something -- the place was massive, and not a little, um, sketchy, at that hour of the morning (note, no town is most beautiful at its bus station). Unfortunately, the friggin 9am bus was already sold out, so I settled for the 11am. Long wait. Then the 11am was delayed an hour. Long wait. Then the bus caught heavier than normal traffic. 30 minute delay.
I arrived in San Antonio after all the morning festivities had ended and siesta had begun. I had yet to eat lunch, and it was already getting late in the afternoon.
I´d met another stranded traveler, an older gentleman from Swiss diplomatic circles, who spoke Spanish and was able to find us a small cafe that was still open even at that hour. Each of us devoured excellent hamburgers. There was no sign of the 10 day "all town" festival, except for some flyers distributed about. Immediately after my hamburger, it was time for me to retreat to the bus station for my return to Buenos Aires.
And yep, no surprise, the return bus was delayed too. This one, 1.5 hours. The sun was nice, though, and I met at the San Antonio bus station a really nice British lady with whom I swapped stories of public transportation woes from around the world (hers were *so* much worse than mine, the poor soul!).
Back in BsAs, I forgot the way to my hotel, and wandered for a long time, needing to use the (ahem) banos quite urgently. Yep. From art gallery princess yesterday to the girl who finally gives in to pay extra for toilet paper. That would be me :-)
My flight out is tomorrow night. I have a day planned at an Estancia not far from the city. I´m a little nervous about making my flight, but determined to make the most of my last precious day in Buenos Aires. Sending my love,
Love T
Yep, I should probably stick to the toursty. I arrived at the bus station an hour early for the bus. This is saying something -- the place was massive, and not a little, um, sketchy, at that hour of the morning (note, no town is most beautiful at its bus station). Unfortunately, the friggin 9am bus was already sold out, so I settled for the 11am. Long wait. Then the 11am was delayed an hour. Long wait. Then the bus caught heavier than normal traffic. 30 minute delay.
I arrived in San Antonio after all the morning festivities had ended and siesta had begun. I had yet to eat lunch, and it was already getting late in the afternoon.
I´d met another stranded traveler, an older gentleman from Swiss diplomatic circles, who spoke Spanish and was able to find us a small cafe that was still open even at that hour. Each of us devoured excellent hamburgers. There was no sign of the 10 day "all town" festival, except for some flyers distributed about. Immediately after my hamburger, it was time for me to retreat to the bus station for my return to Buenos Aires.
And yep, no surprise, the return bus was delayed too. This one, 1.5 hours. The sun was nice, though, and I met at the San Antonio bus station a really nice British lady with whom I swapped stories of public transportation woes from around the world (hers were *so* much worse than mine, the poor soul!).
Back in BsAs, I forgot the way to my hotel, and wandered for a long time, needing to use the (ahem) banos quite urgently. Yep. From art gallery princess yesterday to the girl who finally gives in to pay extra for toilet paper. That would be me :-)
My flight out is tomorrow night. I have a day planned at an Estancia not far from the city. I´m a little nervous about making my flight, but determined to make the most of my last precious day in Buenos Aires. Sending my love,
Love T
Thursday, November 10, 2011
My list
Good evening friends and family!
It´s evening in Buenos Aires, and my hotel is a-buzz with artistic folks. They have an art gallery in the ground floor, and tonight´s the opening of their latest exhibit. As a ´resident´, I´m invited (of the unwashed and touristed) and how could I say no? Free wine and bread with cream cheese, and modern art. I can appear to appreciate the art while not understanding a word anyone says to me, no problem. Who says I´m not a woman of this world?? This place rocks!
This morning I was chagrined to have to pay 14 pesos for my simple sliced bread and coffee breakfast so I made the most of it with 5 pieces of toast, 3 cups of coffee, and 2 thingies of marmalade. Leaving my hotel, I think I could have leaped tall buildings. I toted my bags to my hotel for the next 2 nights, the Art Hotel (hence the gallery), ditched them with a very friendly staff, and bolted onto the streets with an ambitious itinerary.
First on my agenda was the Recoletta Cemetary, so beautiful. I circumnavigated the friggin cemetary first (thanks to my exceptionally bad sense of direction) and can attest, the exterior wall is really dull compared to the inside. Anyway, Evita´s grave is simple and had lots of flowers, and the cemetary itself is both historic and poignant. I took snaps.
Next I headed to Once district, lesser traveled by tourists-- advertised in my guidebook as having a blend of Korean, Jewish, and South American cultures. Seriously. I found, it´s kind of like the Meat Packing district of NYC. Every block had a specialty: I passed the chinese food block, the fabrics block, the hair accessories block, the scarves block, and really weirdly enough, the mannequins block, before I finally found the pizza block (a main street). There I lunched.
I had visited only 2 of the planned 8 stops on my itinerary and I was beat. I splurged on a taxi back to my hotel and siestaed for a few hours before resuming my trek of Buenos Aires' most beautiful sites. I found the subway which expedited my travels to the rest of the items on my itinerary, including the Obelisk, a famous opera house turned bookstore Murray recommended, Congresso, and finally to Florida street, where I was overwelmed by the copious quantities of high quality tourist crap to add to my bulging bags.
And now I´m at an art gallery opening in the lobby of my hotel. Excuse me, but I must dash, to get another free glass of exceptional wine and admire art :-)
At this moment, may I say with all humility, I´m the coolest person I know!
Love T
PS What´s all this about flint something in Rock Creek? Someone give me the 411!
It´s evening in Buenos Aires, and my hotel is a-buzz with artistic folks. They have an art gallery in the ground floor, and tonight´s the opening of their latest exhibit. As a ´resident´, I´m invited (of the unwashed and touristed) and how could I say no? Free wine and bread with cream cheese, and modern art. I can appear to appreciate the art while not understanding a word anyone says to me, no problem. Who says I´m not a woman of this world?? This place rocks!
This morning I was chagrined to have to pay 14 pesos for my simple sliced bread and coffee breakfast so I made the most of it with 5 pieces of toast, 3 cups of coffee, and 2 thingies of marmalade. Leaving my hotel, I think I could have leaped tall buildings. I toted my bags to my hotel for the next 2 nights, the Art Hotel (hence the gallery), ditched them with a very friendly staff, and bolted onto the streets with an ambitious itinerary.
First on my agenda was the Recoletta Cemetary, so beautiful. I circumnavigated the friggin cemetary first (thanks to my exceptionally bad sense of direction) and can attest, the exterior wall is really dull compared to the inside. Anyway, Evita´s grave is simple and had lots of flowers, and the cemetary itself is both historic and poignant. I took snaps.
Next I headed to Once district, lesser traveled by tourists-- advertised in my guidebook as having a blend of Korean, Jewish, and South American cultures. Seriously. I found, it´s kind of like the Meat Packing district of NYC. Every block had a specialty: I passed the chinese food block, the fabrics block, the hair accessories block, the scarves block, and really weirdly enough, the mannequins block, before I finally found the pizza block (a main street). There I lunched.
I had visited only 2 of the planned 8 stops on my itinerary and I was beat. I splurged on a taxi back to my hotel and siestaed for a few hours before resuming my trek of Buenos Aires' most beautiful sites. I found the subway which expedited my travels to the rest of the items on my itinerary, including the Obelisk, a famous opera house turned bookstore Murray recommended, Congresso, and finally to Florida street, where I was overwelmed by the copious quantities of high quality tourist crap to add to my bulging bags.
And now I´m at an art gallery opening in the lobby of my hotel. Excuse me, but I must dash, to get another free glass of exceptional wine and admire art :-)
At this moment, may I say with all humility, I´m the coolest person I know!
Love T
PS What´s all this about flint something in Rock Creek? Someone give me the 411!
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
Back in the big city
Hey Friends and Family!
I´m back in the big city, where it all began. Though my heart aches for the stillness of the wilderness, the city air restores my bones. The streets are awash with young and old competing with the frantic traffic to wind their way home. My hotel is more an apartment, complete with kitchen, in the Recoletta district. For the night, I will sleep like a real Porteño!
I supplied myself from the local Super Mercado for a quiet dinner in. I´m still craving vegetables like you can´t imagine, but I think I will never tire of Argentinean wine. The local people are so kind, a nice man holding my place in the long line so I could get the veggies properly marked. His generosity was poorly rewarded, though, as I held up the line unable to provide the 20 cents in change the lady needed to round up to the nearest peso, and we had to wait for someone to bring her pennies. Sigh. Friggin tourists! :-)
My flight from El Calafate was a bit of an ordeal. I showed up at the airport early and was bumped onto an earlier flight, due to the extensive delays of my scheduled departure. The new schedule was less direct, transporting me first into the deep south to Ushisia, the southernmost city in the world. Though it added 3 hours to the commute, I was delighted to see the it, if only for a short time. The buildings are pastel colored, just like it shows in my guidebook!
Tomorrow I have a long list of places that I simply must see (Murray´s given me the tips on the ones absolutely not to be missed), so I bid you a good night!
Love Tory
I´m back in the big city, where it all began. Though my heart aches for the stillness of the wilderness, the city air restores my bones. The streets are awash with young and old competing with the frantic traffic to wind their way home. My hotel is more an apartment, complete with kitchen, in the Recoletta district. For the night, I will sleep like a real Porteño!
I supplied myself from the local Super Mercado for a quiet dinner in. I´m still craving vegetables like you can´t imagine, but I think I will never tire of Argentinean wine. The local people are so kind, a nice man holding my place in the long line so I could get the veggies properly marked. His generosity was poorly rewarded, though, as I held up the line unable to provide the 20 cents in change the lady needed to round up to the nearest peso, and we had to wait for someone to bring her pennies. Sigh. Friggin tourists! :-)
My flight from El Calafate was a bit of an ordeal. I showed up at the airport early and was bumped onto an earlier flight, due to the extensive delays of my scheduled departure. The new schedule was less direct, transporting me first into the deep south to Ushisia, the southernmost city in the world. Though it added 3 hours to the commute, I was delighted to see the it, if only for a short time. The buildings are pastel colored, just like it shows in my guidebook!
Tomorrow I have a long list of places that I simply must see (Murray´s given me the tips on the ones absolutely not to be missed), so I bid you a good night!
Love Tory
Off to BsAs!
Today I´m off to Buenos Aires! I´ll have a busy morning, wrestling my accumulated belongings into my long suffering luggage, and trying not to undo the folds of beautiful clean laundry. My flight is already delayed a bit, scheduled to depart at 213pm.
El Calafate has been beyond my expectations, but I´m excited to be back in the press of the city of Tango. My hotel in Buenos Aires is not far from the famous cemetary, which comes highly recommended by Murray :-) I will try to post when I´m safely arrived (in the city, not the cemetary, natch).
Love T
El Calafate has been beyond my expectations, but I´m excited to be back in the press of the city of Tango. My hotel in Buenos Aires is not far from the famous cemetary, which comes highly recommended by Murray :-) I will try to post when I´m safely arrived (in the city, not the cemetary, natch).
Love T
Tuesday, November 8, 2011
Puerto Marina Glacier & etc
Good evening Friends and Family!
I awoke early for my morning transport to the glacier, and used the extra time to indulge in El Calafate´s excellent caffe con latte, plus assorted and sundry breads and sweets -- carbohydrates designed to fuel a day trekking (sheesh, I could have climbed a mountain on those calories)!
On the full-to-bursting tourist bus I met two New Yorker attorneys, young women, sharing the excursion. We each strapped on our crampons, snapping cheezy pics the whole time, and our experienced guide leaped upon the glacier, with the lot of us in tow. It was a riot! The staff carefully prepped us in the proper use of equipment on the ice, advice largely ignored (or, frankly, completely misunderstood) by the quartet of Korean tourists, bent on securing photos of every minute. The New Yorkers and I chuckled quietly, indulgently at the attempts of our experienced Argentenian staff at reigning in the antics of the foursome, who skittered and slid across the glacier as if wearing ice skates instead of spikes, while they were recording every moment. At the end of our glacier trek, we were treated to a taste of whiskey on the rocks, aged (averaged) 200 years -- that is, 1 year for the whiskey, 400 years for the `rocks` which our guide harvested with an ice axe from the top of a nearby pinnacle. I don´t generally like whiskey alcohol, but this bit was absolutely delicious, and a fitting end to the wonderful day.
An extra souvineer, I am now evidenced with a bit of the glacier, my face now rosy red with the effect of the sunshine off the ice, and the strong wind. Shoudda worn sunscreen. Sigh.
This evening, my last in El Calafate, I began my painful goodbyes. I visited the receptionist from my hotel, learning German and preparing for an oral exam, whom I helped (not particularly helpful) with accent and vocab. I visited the baker with whom Murray and I connected, in appreciation of the precision of his crossiant and flavor of his scones. He pressed upon me the Argentenian kiss on both cheeks, four of my favorite scones gratis, and an offer for the disco tonight (I politely declined the last :-) ). Tomorrow I fly back to BsAs, heartbroken at leaving this most special of places, but elated to return to the city where my adventure began.
Sending you my love,
Tory
I awoke early for my morning transport to the glacier, and used the extra time to indulge in El Calafate´s excellent caffe con latte, plus assorted and sundry breads and sweets -- carbohydrates designed to fuel a day trekking (sheesh, I could have climbed a mountain on those calories)!
On the full-to-bursting tourist bus I met two New Yorker attorneys, young women, sharing the excursion. We each strapped on our crampons, snapping cheezy pics the whole time, and our experienced guide leaped upon the glacier, with the lot of us in tow. It was a riot! The staff carefully prepped us in the proper use of equipment on the ice, advice largely ignored (or, frankly, completely misunderstood) by the quartet of Korean tourists, bent on securing photos of every minute. The New Yorkers and I chuckled quietly, indulgently at the attempts of our experienced Argentenian staff at reigning in the antics of the foursome, who skittered and slid across the glacier as if wearing ice skates instead of spikes, while they were recording every moment. At the end of our glacier trek, we were treated to a taste of whiskey on the rocks, aged (averaged) 200 years -- that is, 1 year for the whiskey, 400 years for the `rocks` which our guide harvested with an ice axe from the top of a nearby pinnacle. I don´t generally like whiskey alcohol, but this bit was absolutely delicious, and a fitting end to the wonderful day.
An extra souvineer, I am now evidenced with a bit of the glacier, my face now rosy red with the effect of the sunshine off the ice, and the strong wind. Shoudda worn sunscreen. Sigh.
This evening, my last in El Calafate, I began my painful goodbyes. I visited the receptionist from my hotel, learning German and preparing for an oral exam, whom I helped (not particularly helpful) with accent and vocab. I visited the baker with whom Murray and I connected, in appreciation of the precision of his crossiant and flavor of his scones. He pressed upon me the Argentenian kiss on both cheeks, four of my favorite scones gratis, and an offer for the disco tonight (I politely declined the last :-) ). Tomorrow I fly back to BsAs, heartbroken at leaving this most special of places, but elated to return to the city where my adventure began.
Sending you my love,
Tory
Monday, November 7, 2011
Mountain Town and Adventures to Come!
Good afternoon Friends and Family!
This morning I nearly sprinted to the laundry, catching them just as they opened their doors for the day. The lady was so polite, barely flinching as I pulled out layer upon layer of filthy tees and jeans, and socks still shedding bits of the wilderness on her clean floor. This afternoon I returned to two huge bags of the freshest and cleanest and whitest tee shirts, pressed blue jeans, and my socks, my glorious socks, restored to their original colors from the uniform dusty dirt color they´d acquired over the past week. I was so happy I nearly cried. It cost $12. Priceless.
El Calafate has been a wonderful spot to linger. The weather is unmatched -- probably around 75 degrees, clear skies, and a light cooling wind off the glaciers. Inviting restaurants and cafes abound -- stay too long here at the risk of your waistline. I love the mountaineering shops with trekking gear, fancy ropes and tents- they have everything you could desire to rough it in the highest style! But it is all at a price-- this place is dang expensive! The tourist shops have crazy tee shirts, sheep shaped trinkets by local artists, leather goods, jams and wine made from the El Calafate berry, etc, etc, etc. Without blowing the budget, the tourist in me still found way to get a few treasures here and there (watch for them in your Christmas stockings)!
Also, after serious debate, I decided on an excursion for tomorrow´s industry. I´ve been dreaming about it since I heard it was possible, so I´m taking the leap and am joining a group to go trekking on the Puerto Merrino glacier itself. They supply the crampons, included in the price :-) I´ll take tons of pics.
A minor hitch in my plans, I read my email to discover there was a building collapse this morning in Buenos Aires. My hotel was closeby and is now closed indefinitely until they can bring down the rest of the collapsed building and clear the debris. Zipes. I´m going online now to find a new place. I don´t like to think about the timing of it, just a few days before my arrival.... but a miss is as good as a mile :-)
I heard from Murray. He´s fallen in love with Buenos Aires too, and is giving me inside scoop on where he loved and where to skip, so I can maximize my time upon my return on Wednesday. Insider info!!
Thanks for the notes-- I´m thinking of you all, and dragging you along every step of my way. And I am sending my love!
Love T
This morning I nearly sprinted to the laundry, catching them just as they opened their doors for the day. The lady was so polite, barely flinching as I pulled out layer upon layer of filthy tees and jeans, and socks still shedding bits of the wilderness on her clean floor. This afternoon I returned to two huge bags of the freshest and cleanest and whitest tee shirts, pressed blue jeans, and my socks, my glorious socks, restored to their original colors from the uniform dusty dirt color they´d acquired over the past week. I was so happy I nearly cried. It cost $12. Priceless.
El Calafate has been a wonderful spot to linger. The weather is unmatched -- probably around 75 degrees, clear skies, and a light cooling wind off the glaciers. Inviting restaurants and cafes abound -- stay too long here at the risk of your waistline. I love the mountaineering shops with trekking gear, fancy ropes and tents- they have everything you could desire to rough it in the highest style! But it is all at a price-- this place is dang expensive! The tourist shops have crazy tee shirts, sheep shaped trinkets by local artists, leather goods, jams and wine made from the El Calafate berry, etc, etc, etc. Without blowing the budget, the tourist in me still found way to get a few treasures here and there (watch for them in your Christmas stockings)!
Also, after serious debate, I decided on an excursion for tomorrow´s industry. I´ve been dreaming about it since I heard it was possible, so I´m taking the leap and am joining a group to go trekking on the Puerto Merrino glacier itself. They supply the crampons, included in the price :-) I´ll take tons of pics.
A minor hitch in my plans, I read my email to discover there was a building collapse this morning in Buenos Aires. My hotel was closeby and is now closed indefinitely until they can bring down the rest of the collapsed building and clear the debris. Zipes. I´m going online now to find a new place. I don´t like to think about the timing of it, just a few days before my arrival.... but a miss is as good as a mile :-)
I heard from Murray. He´s fallen in love with Buenos Aires too, and is giving me inside scoop on where he loved and where to skip, so I can maximize my time upon my return on Wednesday. Insider info!!
Thanks for the notes-- I´m thinking of you all, and dragging you along every step of my way. And I am sending my love!
Love T
Sunday, November 6, 2011
Sunshine in Patagonia
Greeting friends and family!
I was *so* sad to wave goodbye to Murray this morning, as he settled his overstuffed pack in the taxi, airport bound for Buenos Aires. His pack is heavy due to his generosity of spirit -- he´s heavy an extra pair of hiking boots (mine) to free room in his sweet sister´s luggage for tourist souviners she plans to acquire in the coming week :-)
I remain in El Calafate for 2 more days, before returning to Buenos Aires myself, and though a little blue with missing Murray, I am reveling in hot running water, abundant restaurants (more chocolate shops than you can count), and the deliciousness of wearing tennies instead of those hulking hiking boots which were a constant companion for the past 5 days. I found a laundry in this small town, miracle of miracles, and hope to have the unthinkable -- clean socks -- by this time tomorrow.
This afternoon I also said goodbye to two exceptional women who became friends of ours on the trek, Laura and Sarah, of Boisie and Fairbanks. We four met on the tourist shuttle to the park at the beginning of the week, and during the trek our paths crossed often along the way, as they also followed the W course East to West. Fellow adventurers, we swapped stories of our funny (mis)adventures, and compared bruises, blisters, and the strategies employed to not blow off the trail. This afternoon, they helped keep me company after Murray had departed, over local draft beers, we liquid lunched, and crafted list of advice to give Lonely Planet for their next update to the Trekking in Patagonia guidebook!
Now that it´s just me left in El Calafate, I´ve decided on a quiet, well earned, evening in. I stocked up on dinner supplies at the local supermarket, pulled out my iPod and Kindle, scoped out the TV remote, and confirmed the readiness of my bath soap (which doubles as bubble bath). After a most exceptional week, a most exceptional evening planned. More ambitious adventures can wait for the morning :-)
Sending you all my love!
Love T
I was *so* sad to wave goodbye to Murray this morning, as he settled his overstuffed pack in the taxi, airport bound for Buenos Aires. His pack is heavy due to his generosity of spirit -- he´s heavy an extra pair of hiking boots (mine) to free room in his sweet sister´s luggage for tourist souviners she plans to acquire in the coming week :-)
I remain in El Calafate for 2 more days, before returning to Buenos Aires myself, and though a little blue with missing Murray, I am reveling in hot running water, abundant restaurants (more chocolate shops than you can count), and the deliciousness of wearing tennies instead of those hulking hiking boots which were a constant companion for the past 5 days. I found a laundry in this small town, miracle of miracles, and hope to have the unthinkable -- clean socks -- by this time tomorrow.
This afternoon I also said goodbye to two exceptional women who became friends of ours on the trek, Laura and Sarah, of Boisie and Fairbanks. We four met on the tourist shuttle to the park at the beginning of the week, and during the trek our paths crossed often along the way, as they also followed the W course East to West. Fellow adventurers, we swapped stories of our funny (mis)adventures, and compared bruises, blisters, and the strategies employed to not blow off the trail. This afternoon, they helped keep me company after Murray had departed, over local draft beers, we liquid lunched, and crafted list of advice to give Lonely Planet for their next update to the Trekking in Patagonia guidebook!
Now that it´s just me left in El Calafate, I´ve decided on a quiet, well earned, evening in. I stocked up on dinner supplies at the local supermarket, pulled out my iPod and Kindle, scoped out the TV remote, and confirmed the readiness of my bath soap (which doubles as bubble bath). After a most exceptional week, a most exceptional evening planned. More ambitious adventures can wait for the morning :-)
Sending you all my love!
Love T
Saturday, November 5, 2011
The Grandest of Adventures!
Greetngs Friends and Family!
It´s been a long time since I´ve been able to post to the blog to tell you Murray and I are safe and sound. But we are, and we are returned from our grand adventure!
With minutes to spare from Murray´s taxi dropping him at my hotel door, we sprinted to a cafe then to the domestic airport for El Calafate, the small mountain town north of our destination, Torres del Paine. Plane to bus, we were finally settled in our humble hostel for the next few hours before our 530 am transport to the park.
Poor Murray had slept none on the plane here, little on the flight to El Calafate, but we were both satisfied with a 3 course pizza dinner in town, sustaining us till midnight sorting our backpacks and assorted sundries, in preparation for the trek.
At noon, we arrived in the Torres del Paine, having crossed to the Chilean border with scraps of paper attached to our passports we were at pains not to lose.
Murray helped me off the bus with my pack, and I held his aloft as he settled his on his shoulders. And thus we were off on our trek!
We saw the most spectacular mountain ranges, trekking humbly in their midst, under cover of a bit of rain, a bit of snow, brilliant sunshine, and strong winds that swept the breath from our noses, and the threw us onto the rocks. We crossed rivers on bridges meant for one person at a time (um, does that include the pack?!), crossed streams leaping rock to rock, traversed plains of brush, fields of boulders, climbed small walls of granite to achieve steeper hills on the top. We were stretched to our breaking point, not to mention tripped ankles, sore toes, bruised shoulders and backs. We saw wildlife, birds of all sorts, emu, llama type creatures, fox. All told, I think we traveled 56 miles during our 5 days trekking. Every evening we arrived at our destination, I swore I was done, for I hadn´t another step in me. And each morning we re-tied our laces for another 20 kilometers or so.
Then suddenly, it was ended, and we had arrived at our destination. Bittersweet, we celebrated our endurance, our determination, simultaneously mourning it was ended. But then again, boy oh boy did we need a shower!!
We´ll fill you in on more of the details later, like the time Murray tripped on the pathway and landed upside down turtle-style limbs akimbo, flailing, while I watched on, helpless with laughter. Or the toenail on my right big toe which, injured by repeatedly stubbing my toe descending from the 3rd day´s ascent, formed a blister which separated my toenail from the nail bed -- we performed minor surgery by headlamp that night on my offended toe, trimming the nail and excising the blister. It was *so* gross!
Murray flies out tomorrow and I am staying in El Calafate to relax a bit, instead of heading straight to El Chalten (another trekking town north of here). We will post more later but I am overdue for my first night in a real bed :-)
Sending you hugs and kisses,
Love T
It´s been a long time since I´ve been able to post to the blog to tell you Murray and I are safe and sound. But we are, and we are returned from our grand adventure!
With minutes to spare from Murray´s taxi dropping him at my hotel door, we sprinted to a cafe then to the domestic airport for El Calafate, the small mountain town north of our destination, Torres del Paine. Plane to bus, we were finally settled in our humble hostel for the next few hours before our 530 am transport to the park.
Poor Murray had slept none on the plane here, little on the flight to El Calafate, but we were both satisfied with a 3 course pizza dinner in town, sustaining us till midnight sorting our backpacks and assorted sundries, in preparation for the trek.
At noon, we arrived in the Torres del Paine, having crossed to the Chilean border with scraps of paper attached to our passports we were at pains not to lose.
Murray helped me off the bus with my pack, and I held his aloft as he settled his on his shoulders. And thus we were off on our trek!
We saw the most spectacular mountain ranges, trekking humbly in their midst, under cover of a bit of rain, a bit of snow, brilliant sunshine, and strong winds that swept the breath from our noses, and the threw us onto the rocks. We crossed rivers on bridges meant for one person at a time (um, does that include the pack?!), crossed streams leaping rock to rock, traversed plains of brush, fields of boulders, climbed small walls of granite to achieve steeper hills on the top. We were stretched to our breaking point, not to mention tripped ankles, sore toes, bruised shoulders and backs. We saw wildlife, birds of all sorts, emu, llama type creatures, fox. All told, I think we traveled 56 miles during our 5 days trekking. Every evening we arrived at our destination, I swore I was done, for I hadn´t another step in me. And each morning we re-tied our laces for another 20 kilometers or so.
Then suddenly, it was ended, and we had arrived at our destination. Bittersweet, we celebrated our endurance, our determination, simultaneously mourning it was ended. But then again, boy oh boy did we need a shower!!
We´ll fill you in on more of the details later, like the time Murray tripped on the pathway and landed upside down turtle-style limbs akimbo, flailing, while I watched on, helpless with laughter. Or the toenail on my right big toe which, injured by repeatedly stubbing my toe descending from the 3rd day´s ascent, formed a blister which separated my toenail from the nail bed -- we performed minor surgery by headlamp that night on my offended toe, trimming the nail and excising the blister. It was *so* gross!
Murray flies out tomorrow and I am staying in El Calafate to relax a bit, instead of heading straight to El Chalten (another trekking town north of here). We will post more later but I am overdue for my first night in a real bed :-)
Sending you hugs and kisses,
Love T
Monday, October 31, 2011
Murray is here!
Murray arrived safe and sound and looking fresh as a daisy! We´re off to El Calafate!
Love T
Love T
Sunday, October 30, 2011
Sunshine and Street Fairs
Greetings Friends and Family!
Yesterday after posting, I retired to my themed boudoir -- every room is different, and mine features a famous Argentine crooner of Tango fame. A little cheezy, it's absolutely perfect, and wonderfully cozy.
I crashed hard for a few hours, but woke in time for a late dinner (though still early by Argentine standards). I slipped on some pretty sandals and wandered out in search of my evening meal. My footsteps led me back to the familiar square I'd visited earlier in the day. And using the old tourist wisdom of eating where the locals eat, I passed many fancy, dimly lit steak houses with English translated menus on their windows, until I found a big pizzaria, filled to bursting with chatter and laughter, and doing a brisk takeout business. My waiter was patient as I stumbled through the menu (thank Heaven pizza and mozzarella are the same in all languages). The pizza was fab! Stuffed, I retreated back to my Tango Singer digs, my compliments to the chef still ringing in my ears.
This morning, I slept wonderfully late but still hit the streets as the city was waking up. A simple breakfast of coffee and croissant took me to the La Boca district I'd failed to reach yesterday. It was choc-a-bloc with tourists like me; Though I didn't encounter any Americans, there were tons of Brits. We all reveled in the sunshine, and as the afternoon went on, it grew positively warm! Tons of pics later, I returned via the San Telmo Street Market which is easily a mile long, both sides of the street lined with artists, leather goods, trinkets, street performers, empanadas, tango dancers, and music, music everywhere. I lunched cheaply on a slice of specialty pizza -- flakey pastry dough with tomatoes, cheese, ham, and eggs, for only 7ARS (less than US$2) and invested my savings in tourist trinkets at the Market. A wonderful day.
I'm so excited for tomorrow and Murray's arrival which signals the beginning of our Grand Trek. I will set up my cell phone this afternoon (since I forgot all about it yesterday).
Love you all!
Tory
Yesterday after posting, I retired to my themed boudoir -- every room is different, and mine features a famous Argentine crooner of Tango fame. A little cheezy, it's absolutely perfect, and wonderfully cozy.
I crashed hard for a few hours, but woke in time for a late dinner (though still early by Argentine standards). I slipped on some pretty sandals and wandered out in search of my evening meal. My footsteps led me back to the familiar square I'd visited earlier in the day. And using the old tourist wisdom of eating where the locals eat, I passed many fancy, dimly lit steak houses with English translated menus on their windows, until I found a big pizzaria, filled to bursting with chatter and laughter, and doing a brisk takeout business. My waiter was patient as I stumbled through the menu (thank Heaven pizza and mozzarella are the same in all languages). The pizza was fab! Stuffed, I retreated back to my Tango Singer digs, my compliments to the chef still ringing in my ears.
This morning, I slept wonderfully late but still hit the streets as the city was waking up. A simple breakfast of coffee and croissant took me to the La Boca district I'd failed to reach yesterday. It was choc-a-bloc with tourists like me; Though I didn't encounter any Americans, there were tons of Brits. We all reveled in the sunshine, and as the afternoon went on, it grew positively warm! Tons of pics later, I returned via the San Telmo Street Market which is easily a mile long, both sides of the street lined with artists, leather goods, trinkets, street performers, empanadas, tango dancers, and music, music everywhere. I lunched cheaply on a slice of specialty pizza -- flakey pastry dough with tomatoes, cheese, ham, and eggs, for only 7ARS (less than US$2) and invested my savings in tourist trinkets at the Market. A wonderful day.
I'm so excited for tomorrow and Murray's arrival which signals the beginning of our Grand Trek. I will set up my cell phone this afternoon (since I forgot all about it yesterday).
Love you all!
Tory
Saturday, October 29, 2011
South America!
Greetings friends and family!
It was a lesson in patience as I tapped my toe at the EZE Buenos Aires Int´l airport. Four hours to Atlanta, then 10.5 to BA, all the inherent risks of checking your luggage, and mine was nowhere to be seen. But then, I guess *someone´s* bags have to be the last offloaded, and today I was the lucky winner. Weak with relief, I retrieved my pack and suitcase and was officially arrived!
I made my way speedily by taxi into the city and was deposited without ceremony at my humble digs, a budget hotel in the quirky San Telmo area. Late morning, it was still too early to check in, so I stumbled, rumpled, onto the streets, still smelling like airplane-travel and Cheezits (Nikole's snack pack for my flight).
I had an ambitious first day planned, with a 3ish mile walk to a famous part of La Boca, but only made it halfway before my energy flagged, then abruptly gave out, dropping me squarely before a charming Argentine cafe halfway to my destination. I ordered steak and fries (it was the house specialty) and though the steak was only so-so, the fries brought tears to my eyes. I asked for ketchup on the side and received barbeque sauce. This place is unreal! The waiter brought me a glass of red wine with my lunch, and my midday repast was complete.
Sated, I despaired the exhausted trek back to my hotel till I spied a chocolate shop and within found the energy for the last few blocks-- a pair of small butter cookies enrobed in chocolate, sandwiched with caramel cream. I'll be eating lettuce for a week, to work off all the calories. Totally worth it.
Now I'm all checked in and ready for a nap and am sending my love. I can't believe Murray's just 2 day behind me and soon we'll be hiking the Andes! Murray, the arrivals area of EZE is crazy, crazy, but the Taxi EZE stand was easy to find right in the middle of the arrivals hall, and you can pay for the taxi there and they'll take you outside to the driver. Fare to my hotel was outrageous but fast, US43, approx 25 minutes. There´s an HSBC ATM on the left as you exit the arrivals hall, but I'll have plenty of ARS so you don't realy need it. You can pay for the cab at the Taxi EZE stand in USD. Pay the Reciprocity Fee by cc; everyone did it and there was no extra fee.
Love T
It was a lesson in patience as I tapped my toe at the EZE Buenos Aires Int´l airport. Four hours to Atlanta, then 10.5 to BA, all the inherent risks of checking your luggage, and mine was nowhere to be seen. But then, I guess *someone´s* bags have to be the last offloaded, and today I was the lucky winner. Weak with relief, I retrieved my pack and suitcase and was officially arrived!
I made my way speedily by taxi into the city and was deposited without ceremony at my humble digs, a budget hotel in the quirky San Telmo area. Late morning, it was still too early to check in, so I stumbled, rumpled, onto the streets, still smelling like airplane-travel and Cheezits (Nikole's snack pack for my flight).
I had an ambitious first day planned, with a 3ish mile walk to a famous part of La Boca, but only made it halfway before my energy flagged, then abruptly gave out, dropping me squarely before a charming Argentine cafe halfway to my destination. I ordered steak and fries (it was the house specialty) and though the steak was only so-so, the fries brought tears to my eyes. I asked for ketchup on the side and received barbeque sauce. This place is unreal! The waiter brought me a glass of red wine with my lunch, and my midday repast was complete.
Sated, I despaired the exhausted trek back to my hotel till I spied a chocolate shop and within found the energy for the last few blocks-- a pair of small butter cookies enrobed in chocolate, sandwiched with caramel cream. I'll be eating lettuce for a week, to work off all the calories. Totally worth it.
Now I'm all checked in and ready for a nap and am sending my love. I can't believe Murray's just 2 day behind me and soon we'll be hiking the Andes! Murray, the arrivals area of EZE is crazy, crazy, but the Taxi EZE stand was easy to find right in the middle of the arrivals hall, and you can pay for the taxi there and they'll take you outside to the driver. Fare to my hotel was outrageous but fast, US43, approx 25 minutes. There´s an HSBC ATM on the left as you exit the arrivals hall, but I'll have plenty of ARS so you don't realy need it. You can pay for the cab at the Taxi EZE stand in USD. Pay the Reciprocity Fee by cc; everyone did it and there was no extra fee.
Love T
Sunday, April 10, 2011
Home again, .home again
My most special friends and family,
The faces of my most precious Gobi and the Turk welcomed me with high volume kitty miaos as I disgorged the accumulated week's worth of laundry and Costa Rica treasures. Robert and I made our exceptionally early morning connections in San Jose with no problem, and we arrived in Seattle after uneventful flights, despite a small crisis at the airport in Denver when the airline mysteriously misplaced then found Robert's souvineer-stuffed luggage.
I'll treasure the days and adventures we had in Costa Rica -- the generous spirit of the hotel reception staffs, our philosophical taxi drivers, and the sound of the crashing waves and hooting monkeys. But best of all is arriving back home safe and sound, to my favorite pillow and the ordinary household chores that are now so preciously familiar. Thank you all for following our adventures and sharing the moments with us. Pura Vida!
I'll post pics when we get them downloaded :-)
Love T
The faces of my most precious Gobi and the Turk welcomed me with high volume kitty miaos as I disgorged the accumulated week's worth of laundry and Costa Rica treasures. Robert and I made our exceptionally early morning connections in San Jose with no problem, and we arrived in Seattle after uneventful flights, despite a small crisis at the airport in Denver when the airline mysteriously misplaced then found Robert's souvineer-stuffed luggage.
I'll treasure the days and adventures we had in Costa Rica -- the generous spirit of the hotel reception staffs, our philosophical taxi drivers, and the sound of the crashing waves and hooting monkeys. But best of all is arriving back home safe and sound, to my favorite pillow and the ordinary household chores that are now so preciously familiar. Thank you all for following our adventures and sharing the moments with us. Pura Vida!
I'll post pics when we get them downloaded :-)
Love T
Saturday, April 9, 2011
Our fondest adios!
Hola Everyone!
Today Robert and I rose early to say goodbye to La Fortuna and catch our transport back into San Jose. The bird that every morning pecked at our window (a misguided woodpecker, perhaps? We kinda wondered) pecked again to remind us to pack up all the assorted souvineers and touristy bits, along with the last little drips and drabs left of our sunscreen, toothpaste, and shampoo, plus worn out bikinis and flip flops. It's time to head home.
San Jose seemed chaotic and noisy compared to the racous calls of the toucan, the hooting monkeys, the roar of the ocean, and the buzzing of birds and insects flying about. But the Hotel Presidente has been treating us well, as there is an olympic sized bathtub tailor-made for us, ideally suited to remove the layers of dirt and sand accumulated by a week on the road.
Our flight departs at 6:30 am tomorrow, and I am already longing to return to this very special place. But I am so very excited to see familiar faces again, to kiss, kiss Gobi and the Turk, and to distribute the Costa Rican tourist goodies we have crammed into our suitcases.
Thank you, thank you to Nikole and to Murray for caring for my sweet, precious boys while their momma was away. It is a tremendous thing you do for me, and I truly appreciate it, more than I can say! I'll post when I'm home safe and sound (and when the boys let me on to the internet).
Love T
Today Robert and I rose early to say goodbye to La Fortuna and catch our transport back into San Jose. The bird that every morning pecked at our window (a misguided woodpecker, perhaps? We kinda wondered) pecked again to remind us to pack up all the assorted souvineers and touristy bits, along with the last little drips and drabs left of our sunscreen, toothpaste, and shampoo, plus worn out bikinis and flip flops. It's time to head home.
San Jose seemed chaotic and noisy compared to the racous calls of the toucan, the hooting monkeys, the roar of the ocean, and the buzzing of birds and insects flying about. But the Hotel Presidente has been treating us well, as there is an olympic sized bathtub tailor-made for us, ideally suited to remove the layers of dirt and sand accumulated by a week on the road.
Our flight departs at 6:30 am tomorrow, and I am already longing to return to this very special place. But I am so very excited to see familiar faces again, to kiss, kiss Gobi and the Turk, and to distribute the Costa Rican tourist goodies we have crammed into our suitcases.
Thank you, thank you to Nikole and to Murray for caring for my sweet, precious boys while their momma was away. It is a tremendous thing you do for me, and I truly appreciate it, more than I can say! I'll post when I'm home safe and sound (and when the boys let me on to the internet).
Love T
Friday, April 8, 2011
Plentitude!
Buenos Tardes, family and friends!
Breakfast this morning was interrupted by our driver (gotta love having a driver!) early arrival to take us to our ATVs for a tour of the Arenal waterfall. Bumpy roads, traffic (in the form of cars, SUVs, horses, cows, et al) is old hat for us, and we´re pros on the ATV. The jungle around the falls was green, green, and we saw our first toucans. And our guide took us to the Arenal river where he told us about the big volcano eruption in the late 60´s. We compared notes with the St Helens erruption in 1980, and had a really fun time.
But the big adventure of the day belonged to us as we tried the ziplines through the jungle canopy. Stapped in and safety lined, we zipped and zoomed from treetop to tree top between high platforms hundreds of feet off the ground. It simply moved too fast for us to be afraid of the heights or the speed-- but only just. A fun Flemish group, plus some Spaniards shared the experience with us. Halfway through the platforms, we paused for the optional Tarzan swing. All the women in the group raised their hands, among them, me!! Nearly all the guys volunteered to take pictures. I was fourth up. Strapped in, they opened the gate before me and I dropped a good 20 feet before I swung out wide and far, screaming bloody murder the whole entire way. Everyone was laughing at my screeching, including me, and the whole thing was caught on video. Priceless.
Our taxi driver to this evening´s internet cafe plus dinner (internet was down at the hotel, because internet goes down when it rains....) was a driver by trade but a philosopher at heart. He stopped the cab to give us advice-- don´t use bad words, be honest at all times, and seek out plentitude in all that you do. We thought it was a magnificent thought for our last night in Arenal :-)
Love T
Breakfast this morning was interrupted by our driver (gotta love having a driver!) early arrival to take us to our ATVs for a tour of the Arenal waterfall. Bumpy roads, traffic (in the form of cars, SUVs, horses, cows, et al) is old hat for us, and we´re pros on the ATV. The jungle around the falls was green, green, and we saw our first toucans. And our guide took us to the Arenal river where he told us about the big volcano eruption in the late 60´s. We compared notes with the St Helens erruption in 1980, and had a really fun time.
But the big adventure of the day belonged to us as we tried the ziplines through the jungle canopy. Stapped in and safety lined, we zipped and zoomed from treetop to tree top between high platforms hundreds of feet off the ground. It simply moved too fast for us to be afraid of the heights or the speed-- but only just. A fun Flemish group, plus some Spaniards shared the experience with us. Halfway through the platforms, we paused for the optional Tarzan swing. All the women in the group raised their hands, among them, me!! Nearly all the guys volunteered to take pictures. I was fourth up. Strapped in, they opened the gate before me and I dropped a good 20 feet before I swung out wide and far, screaming bloody murder the whole entire way. Everyone was laughing at my screeching, including me, and the whole thing was caught on video. Priceless.
Our taxi driver to this evening´s internet cafe plus dinner (internet was down at the hotel, because internet goes down when it rains....) was a driver by trade but a philosopher at heart. He stopped the cab to give us advice-- don´t use bad words, be honest at all times, and seek out plentitude in all that you do. We thought it was a magnificent thought for our last night in Arenal :-)
Love T
Thursday, April 7, 2011
The day in La Fortuna
Hola family and friends!
This morning, Robert and I awoke to a cacophony --the sound of chirping insects, calling birds, hooting monkeys, and a low rumble which grew louder and louder! Vaguely uneasy, I grew positively alarmed at the approaching roar, until Robert identified the sound as a huge rain squall, watering the verdant grounds of our humble resort and filling the air with the sounds of a jungle storm.
Energized by the Costa Rican coffee and a buffet breakfast, we worked off our pineapples and yogurt hiking the grounds, some 150 or so acres of green. At the edge of a ravine, I ventured too close, fell through the soft moss and scraped my leg on a tree root. Sigh. Fortunately, Robert had his medical kit and we got me patched up with antiseptic to spare.
This afternoon, we ventured into La Fortuna town for lunch at a local soda, which grew popular with the tourist crowd by the passing minute (we attributed it all to our presence), then I wandered off by myself to visit the local versions of grocery stores and Quicky-Mart (one of my favorite activities) to acquire local versions of cookies, chocolates, and -- best of all -- bottled salsa!
I foolishly hiked all the way back through town to the property of our hotel -- probably no further than 2 miles or so, but in the hot and humid, I was a wilted flower upon arrival, finding the relaxed and suntanned Robert snoozing by the pool. Some vacation, eh??
Tomorrow´s our adventure day: we´re booked at odark early for an ATV tour of the jungle and waterfall (includes lunch), followed by the long awaited ziplines.
We saw the monkeys!!
Love T
This morning, Robert and I awoke to a cacophony --the sound of chirping insects, calling birds, hooting monkeys, and a low rumble which grew louder and louder! Vaguely uneasy, I grew positively alarmed at the approaching roar, until Robert identified the sound as a huge rain squall, watering the verdant grounds of our humble resort and filling the air with the sounds of a jungle storm.
Energized by the Costa Rican coffee and a buffet breakfast, we worked off our pineapples and yogurt hiking the grounds, some 150 or so acres of green. At the edge of a ravine, I ventured too close, fell through the soft moss and scraped my leg on a tree root. Sigh. Fortunately, Robert had his medical kit and we got me patched up with antiseptic to spare.
This afternoon, we ventured into La Fortuna town for lunch at a local soda, which grew popular with the tourist crowd by the passing minute (we attributed it all to our presence), then I wandered off by myself to visit the local versions of grocery stores and Quicky-Mart (one of my favorite activities) to acquire local versions of cookies, chocolates, and -- best of all -- bottled salsa!
I foolishly hiked all the way back through town to the property of our hotel -- probably no further than 2 miles or so, but in the hot and humid, I was a wilted flower upon arrival, finding the relaxed and suntanned Robert snoozing by the pool. Some vacation, eh??
Tomorrow´s our adventure day: we´re booked at odark early for an ATV tour of the jungle and waterfall (includes lunch), followed by the long awaited ziplines.
We saw the monkeys!!
Love T
Wednesday, April 6, 2011
Does it really take 4 mini-vans to get to Arenal?
Hola Family and Friends!!
I´m at an internet cafe immediately across the main road in La Fortuna from a wonderful laundramat, which is right now tumbling our pitifully dirty tees and shorts a wonderful clean. This morning, Robert and I were up with the sun, discovering an exceptionally large insect the shape of a leaf closely guarding our front door, and keeping the lizards at bay. Skirting the bug (Robert, with much more dignity than I), we hauled our luggage out for our 6:30 departure to the Arenal Volcano.
Our taxi took us down the steep dusty road to the waiting mini-van, which took us over potholes and dirt roads to the next waiting mini-van, more rough roads and dust, then to the Puntarenas ferry. After the hour and a half ferry crossing we picked up our third mini-van, but then changed just half an hour later to the final van which took us the last 3 hours stretch into the mountains. Our driver entertained himself on this final stretch, maintaining a constant soliloquy of loud, fluent Spanish. Not sure who was listening, but we sure were greatful when he stopped the van at an unnammed soda (cafe) along the way and let us out to use the bathroom and grab something to eat.
Finally, finally, by 2pm we were greatfully checked into a charming hotel Robert found online, with individual cabins and a spectacular view of the volcano. It looms over the town of La Fortuna and promises adventures for the days to come! But most importantly, next time I post, I´ll be wearing clean clothes :-)
I am thinking of you and sending you all my love!
Love T
PS I miss the ocean terribly!
PPS We will try to find a place to burn photos and post. The only two places we´ve found so far, their equipment was not working :-(
I´m at an internet cafe immediately across the main road in La Fortuna from a wonderful laundramat, which is right now tumbling our pitifully dirty tees and shorts a wonderful clean. This morning, Robert and I were up with the sun, discovering an exceptionally large insect the shape of a leaf closely guarding our front door, and keeping the lizards at bay. Skirting the bug (Robert, with much more dignity than I), we hauled our luggage out for our 6:30 departure to the Arenal Volcano.
Our taxi took us down the steep dusty road to the waiting mini-van, which took us over potholes and dirt roads to the next waiting mini-van, more rough roads and dust, then to the Puntarenas ferry. After the hour and a half ferry crossing we picked up our third mini-van, but then changed just half an hour later to the final van which took us the last 3 hours stretch into the mountains. Our driver entertained himself on this final stretch, maintaining a constant soliloquy of loud, fluent Spanish. Not sure who was listening, but we sure were greatful when he stopped the van at an unnammed soda (cafe) along the way and let us out to use the bathroom and grab something to eat.
Finally, finally, by 2pm we were greatfully checked into a charming hotel Robert found online, with individual cabins and a spectacular view of the volcano. It looms over the town of La Fortuna and promises adventures for the days to come! But most importantly, next time I post, I´ll be wearing clean clothes :-)
I am thinking of you and sending you all my love!
Love T
PS I miss the ocean terribly!
PPS We will try to find a place to burn photos and post. The only two places we´ve found so far, their equipment was not working :-(
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
The matchess Mal Pais
Good afternoon everyone!
This morning Robert and I admired the iguanas in the trees off our deck as they leaped from limb to limb catching whatever bugs they could for breakfast. We were meanwhile enjoying our own repast -- Costa Rican coffee (absolutely delicious), toast and fruit. Thus fortified, we were off like a herd of turtles (everyone moves a little slowly here) aboard our ATV to visit the matchess town of Mal Pais.
This is one of the most famous surf areas in Costa Rica, and Robert and I were instantly charmed. The downtown area of town (as it were) consisted of a few huts where fishermen were bringing in their local catch. They piled the guts and other undesirable bits into large buckets they poured onto the rocks for the wheeling birds of exotic lineage and enormous wingspan. The surf itself was breathtaking, though the surfers were few -- mostly just some kids playing around on boogie boards -- so we wandered the beach by ourselves, and snapped cheezy pics. We dipped our toes in the tidepools, and admired the wildlife around us.
We lunched at a local soda (cafe) and spent siesta time snoozing in the wonderful heat and refreshing ocean breezes. I explored a bit more on the ATV this afternoon, going north along the coast until the dusty dirt road finally gave out and there was nothing left but ocean expanse in front of me. A moment to always remember :-)
Tomorrow we are off at an unreasonably early hour for our transport (van-ferry-van) to the Arenal Volcano area. We are really excited to see the monkeys!
Love T
This morning Robert and I admired the iguanas in the trees off our deck as they leaped from limb to limb catching whatever bugs they could for breakfast. We were meanwhile enjoying our own repast -- Costa Rican coffee (absolutely delicious), toast and fruit. Thus fortified, we were off like a herd of turtles (everyone moves a little slowly here) aboard our ATV to visit the matchess town of Mal Pais.
This is one of the most famous surf areas in Costa Rica, and Robert and I were instantly charmed. The downtown area of town (as it were) consisted of a few huts where fishermen were bringing in their local catch. They piled the guts and other undesirable bits into large buckets they poured onto the rocks for the wheeling birds of exotic lineage and enormous wingspan. The surf itself was breathtaking, though the surfers were few -- mostly just some kids playing around on boogie boards -- so we wandered the beach by ourselves, and snapped cheezy pics. We dipped our toes in the tidepools, and admired the wildlife around us.
We lunched at a local soda (cafe) and spent siesta time snoozing in the wonderful heat and refreshing ocean breezes. I explored a bit more on the ATV this afternoon, going north along the coast until the dusty dirt road finally gave out and there was nothing left but ocean expanse in front of me. A moment to always remember :-)
Tomorrow we are off at an unreasonably early hour for our transport (van-ferry-van) to the Arenal Volcano area. We are really excited to see the monkeys!
Love T
Monday, April 4, 2011
Hot, hot,hot!
Good evening family!
This morning, at the resort tent, Robert and I were accompanied by the world's most charming restaurant cat. Probably just 12 months old or so, this kitty Marty stole the hearts of all the Ylang Ylang guests, including Robert's and mine. We also befriended a pair of small green lizards we named Walter and Mondale. Then this morning Marty ate Mondale (or one of his cousins). It happens :-)
Now Robert and I call the Chill House our home. The air is filled with the sound of cicadas and exotic bird calls we can't identify. We rented a four wheeler ATV for the next few days. It is so much fun to navigate these dusty roads aboard!
Love T
This morning, at the resort tent, Robert and I were accompanied by the world's most charming restaurant cat. Probably just 12 months old or so, this kitty Marty stole the hearts of all the Ylang Ylang guests, including Robert's and mine. We also befriended a pair of small green lizards we named Walter and Mondale. Then this morning Marty ate Mondale (or one of his cousins). It happens :-)
Now Robert and I call the Chill House our home. The air is filled with the sound of cicadas and exotic bird calls we can't identify. We rented a four wheeler ATV for the next few days. It is so much fun to navigate these dusty roads aboard!
Love T
Sunday, April 3, 2011
Adventures at sea!
Hola Friends and Family!
Robert and I just got back from our sunny mini excurision to Tortula Island. Scorning activity of all kinds, we spent the entire day on the beach, soaking in the sunshine. When the sun got too hot, I walked about 25 feet to the waves and plunged myself into the surf. Robert was a little more sensible and stayed under a beach umbrella. Together, we relaxed the afternoon away! No worries, though -- plenty of sunscreen for us both :-)
Tonight we are moving in to new digs for a stay at a resort a few minutes' walk up the beach from Montezuma. We've reserved an ocean-facing tent for the night. Very exciting! Robert's got a mosquito net all ready to string up, should we require....
Our plans for tomorrow originally called for us to head inland at o'dark early to the Monteverde Cloud Forest.... But the sun and the water are so seductive, we've decided abandon our original plans and instead to linger in this area for just a short time longer. We just made a reservation at a small resort called the Canaima Chill House in the town of Santa Teresa / Mal Pais, which is just a few kilometers up the beach from Montezuma.
Maybe we'll finally have time to learn to surf :-)
Sending all my love!
Love T
Robert and I just got back from our sunny mini excurision to Tortula Island. Scorning activity of all kinds, we spent the entire day on the beach, soaking in the sunshine. When the sun got too hot, I walked about 25 feet to the waves and plunged myself into the surf. Robert was a little more sensible and stayed under a beach umbrella. Together, we relaxed the afternoon away! No worries, though -- plenty of sunscreen for us both :-)
Tonight we are moving in to new digs for a stay at a resort a few minutes' walk up the beach from Montezuma. We've reserved an ocean-facing tent for the night. Very exciting! Robert's got a mosquito net all ready to string up, should we require....
Our plans for tomorrow originally called for us to head inland at o'dark early to the Monteverde Cloud Forest.... But the sun and the water are so seductive, we've decided abandon our original plans and instead to linger in this area for just a short time longer. We just made a reservation at a small resort called the Canaima Chill House in the town of Santa Teresa / Mal Pais, which is just a few kilometers up the beach from Montezuma.
Maybe we'll finally have time to learn to surf :-)
Sending all my love!
Love T
Saturday, April 2, 2011
Adventures on land
Buenos Tardes, my friends and family!
I´m contentedly exhausted, typing here from the teeny internet cafe on the ´main street´, Montezuma. It´s easy to see how people wash up on these shores and never seem to leave. The air is so sticky and hot, anything faster than a sultry walk is too rapid, and any industry too far removed from the beach is simply ignored and forgotten.
But, being ambitious tourists, this morning Robert and I were up at o'dark early, beating the heat and the crowds, to hike to the waterfalls above town. Advertised as a 15 minute wander, we spent an hour scrambling over boulders, wading in the river, and picking our way over slippery moss and under hanging vines, before we finally made it to the falls. We saw plenty of wildlife: iguanas, lizards of all sorts, spiders and other creepy-crawlies, plus fish, birds, and weird looking squirrels. We snapped tons of pics.
In need of refreshment from our walk, we indulged in a repast of fresh coconut milk served roadside by a guy with a machetti: he choped off the top of the coconut, inserted a straw and handed it over -- surprisingly yummy! We chucked the coconut into the bushes when done (it´s compostable) and wandered into town to rent an SUV, hoping to make it to the famous Mal Pais beach on the other side of the penninsula, for a lunch on the beach and folick in the waves. Unfortunately, our goal was elusive as we kept getting delightfully lost along rutted dirt trails and pathways through the trees and hills. Finally unwinding our way back to Montezuma in defeat, we devoured a delicious lunch I can´t even remember and our hotel welcomed us back dusty, dirty, sweaty, windswept, bumped and bruised, and completely, completely spent. Wonderful.
For tomorrow´s industry, we are booked on a boat tour to the nearby Tortuga Island. Supposedly you can rent sea kayaks there for just $10, or go snorkling, fishing, all kinds of things. And you can even just sit in a hammock and let the gentle breeze rock it back and forth. It´s going to be tough deciding which :-)
Love T
I´m contentedly exhausted, typing here from the teeny internet cafe on the ´main street´, Montezuma. It´s easy to see how people wash up on these shores and never seem to leave. The air is so sticky and hot, anything faster than a sultry walk is too rapid, and any industry too far removed from the beach is simply ignored and forgotten.
But, being ambitious tourists, this morning Robert and I were up at o'dark early, beating the heat and the crowds, to hike to the waterfalls above town. Advertised as a 15 minute wander, we spent an hour scrambling over boulders, wading in the river, and picking our way over slippery moss and under hanging vines, before we finally made it to the falls. We saw plenty of wildlife: iguanas, lizards of all sorts, spiders and other creepy-crawlies, plus fish, birds, and weird looking squirrels. We snapped tons of pics.
In need of refreshment from our walk, we indulged in a repast of fresh coconut milk served roadside by a guy with a machetti: he choped off the top of the coconut, inserted a straw and handed it over -- surprisingly yummy! We chucked the coconut into the bushes when done (it´s compostable) and wandered into town to rent an SUV, hoping to make it to the famous Mal Pais beach on the other side of the penninsula, for a lunch on the beach and folick in the waves. Unfortunately, our goal was elusive as we kept getting delightfully lost along rutted dirt trails and pathways through the trees and hills. Finally unwinding our way back to Montezuma in defeat, we devoured a delicious lunch I can´t even remember and our hotel welcomed us back dusty, dirty, sweaty, windswept, bumped and bruised, and completely, completely spent. Wonderful.
For tomorrow´s industry, we are booked on a boat tour to the nearby Tortuga Island. Supposedly you can rent sea kayaks there for just $10, or go snorkling, fishing, all kinds of things. And you can even just sit in a hammock and let the gentle breeze rock it back and forth. It´s going to be tough deciding which :-)
Love T
Friday, April 1, 2011
From Montezuma, with love
Ola friends and family!
Robert and I are contentedly established in a lovely room on the beach with AC and a long veranda in the tiny surf town of Montezuma. We had a somewhat harrowing bus ride from San Jose yesterday (for just $2 it took the ´old highway`), arriving Jaco in the heat of the afternoon. I was pretty much wilted, but we had just enough energy (after ´dos cervesas, por favor´) to book tickets on this morning´s boat to Montezuma, across the bay.
Dinner in Jaco was a seafood affair, though we were both a bit on edge -- Jaco has a decidedly seedy atmosphere that pervades the town. Our hotel, Clarita´s Beach Bar, was not quite nice as it appeared on the internet.... plus, it kind of smelled. But the beach itself was exquisite, and I frolicked in the waves while Robert supervised from shore.
But this morning, we were happy enough to quit Jaco´s shores, and begin our trek to Montezuma. Luggage in tow, we waded out to the jet boat and climbed aboard. Its open deck seated around 15 tourists or so. Then with fanfare and splashing waves, and a Rastifarian at the helm, we were fast, fast screaming across the water. Spray splashed us constantly, and the wind roared in our ears, and the two of us were grinning like idiots. The commute slowed several times as we paused to admire schools of dolphins playing in the waves. We snapped plenty of pics :-)
Montezuma is just what the doctor ordered after the chaos of San Jose and the grimy Jaco. The whole town consists of a beach, and a T intersection with a few cute restaurants, surf shops, and places to rent mopeds and ATVs. And that´s it. In other words, it´s absolute heaven. We´re in Montezuma for the next few days, and there´s a hammock with my name on it, so I bid you adieu for tonight!
Love T
Robert and I are contentedly established in a lovely room on the beach with AC and a long veranda in the tiny surf town of Montezuma. We had a somewhat harrowing bus ride from San Jose yesterday (for just $2 it took the ´old highway`), arriving Jaco in the heat of the afternoon. I was pretty much wilted, but we had just enough energy (after ´dos cervesas, por favor´) to book tickets on this morning´s boat to Montezuma, across the bay.
Dinner in Jaco was a seafood affair, though we were both a bit on edge -- Jaco has a decidedly seedy atmosphere that pervades the town. Our hotel, Clarita´s Beach Bar, was not quite nice as it appeared on the internet.... plus, it kind of smelled. But the beach itself was exquisite, and I frolicked in the waves while Robert supervised from shore.
But this morning, we were happy enough to quit Jaco´s shores, and begin our trek to Montezuma. Luggage in tow, we waded out to the jet boat and climbed aboard. Its open deck seated around 15 tourists or so. Then with fanfare and splashing waves, and a Rastifarian at the helm, we were fast, fast screaming across the water. Spray splashed us constantly, and the wind roared in our ears, and the two of us were grinning like idiots. The commute slowed several times as we paused to admire schools of dolphins playing in the waves. We snapped plenty of pics :-)
Montezuma is just what the doctor ordered after the chaos of San Jose and the grimy Jaco. The whole town consists of a beach, and a T intersection with a few cute restaurants, surf shops, and places to rent mopeds and ATVs. And that´s it. In other words, it´s absolute heaven. We´re in Montezuma for the next few days, and there´s a hammock with my name on it, so I bid you adieu for tonight!
Love T
Thursday, March 31, 2011
Get Loco in Jaco!
Good morning friends and family!
What a vibrant and gritty and authentic city San Jose is! Not too many tourists, though Robert and I are far from alone, as the streets are crowded at all hours with locals and workers all rushing about. The traffic is pure chaos, but pedestrians abound, nimbly dodging transports of all sizes from overloaded mopeds to dinosaur-scaled buses, all spewing diesel clouds. Something about this place gives me the energy to leap buildings!
Yesterday noon, the rested Robert and I retraced the steps of my morning excursion, then wandered further to the Central Market -- a full city block affair of vendors and eateries, like a turkish souk or the Pike Market. We ´treated´ ourselves to an authentic lunch in the belly of the market. Appetizer was some kind of potato tortilla, fried. The entree a form of meat-ish patty on cornmeal tortilla taco-like. Dry of seasoning or toppings, both were, umm, interesting. But (rap wood) no tummy difficulties to report and it was really fun to use Roberts high school Spanish.
We ventured further to the sketchier part of town where we procurred bus tickets for the morning departure to Jaco, then scooted out quickly, safe and sound, belongings intact, back to our pension.
Jetlagged Robert spent much of the rest of the afternoon napping away the heat and humidity, while I wandered the streets near our pension, burning off excess energy buying three sarangs for the beach, and some tourist trinkets.
This morning we are off to Jaco, on the Pacific Coast, where the adventure continues. I can´t wait to plunge my toes into the ocean!
Love T
What a vibrant and gritty and authentic city San Jose is! Not too many tourists, though Robert and I are far from alone, as the streets are crowded at all hours with locals and workers all rushing about. The traffic is pure chaos, but pedestrians abound, nimbly dodging transports of all sizes from overloaded mopeds to dinosaur-scaled buses, all spewing diesel clouds. Something about this place gives me the energy to leap buildings!
Yesterday noon, the rested Robert and I retraced the steps of my morning excursion, then wandered further to the Central Market -- a full city block affair of vendors and eateries, like a turkish souk or the Pike Market. We ´treated´ ourselves to an authentic lunch in the belly of the market. Appetizer was some kind of potato tortilla, fried. The entree a form of meat-ish patty on cornmeal tortilla taco-like. Dry of seasoning or toppings, both were, umm, interesting. But (rap wood) no tummy difficulties to report and it was really fun to use Roberts high school Spanish.
We ventured further to the sketchier part of town where we procurred bus tickets for the morning departure to Jaco, then scooted out quickly, safe and sound, belongings intact, back to our pension.
Jetlagged Robert spent much of the rest of the afternoon napping away the heat and humidity, while I wandered the streets near our pension, burning off excess energy buying three sarangs for the beach, and some tourist trinkets.
This morning we are off to Jaco, on the Pacific Coast, where the adventure continues. I can´t wait to plunge my toes into the ocean!
Love T
Wednesday, March 30, 2011
Pura Vida from San Jose!
Ola mi amigos!
Greetings from San Jose, Costa Rica! Robert and I flew out yesterday afternoon. His luggage weighed twice mine -- bikinis just don´t take up much space-- and we were on the red eye out of Denver at midnight. Before we knew it, we had landed, cleared customs and at 530 a.m. were launched onto the streets of San Jose.
The city was already awake and lively, which is more than I can say for the two of us, unwashed and rumpled tourists that we are. Our wonderful pension, Casa 69, owned by a German man from Saarbrucken, checked us in immediately. I jumped headfirst into the shower; Robert barely removed his shoes before crashing out on the bed. I left him to sleep while indulging in a perfect eggwhite omelette, which was not easy to order....I had to do some fancy explaining, and I bet they´re still talking about it. Sigh. After that, I left Robert to his repose and hit the streets of the city.
Our hotel is a bit out of the city center, (but conveniently located to the Nicaraguan embassy so it´s easy to find). I´ve put some tracks on my tennies enjoying the sights and sounds and smells. I found an ATM to withdraw the local currency but then realized I had forgotten the exchange rate and was uncertain whether I was withdrawing $10 or $1000. Zipes. Fortunately for me, I guessed correctly, and have $10 to splurge on whatever tourist fancies grip me (and there are many, many).
Sending you my love!
Love T
Greetings from San Jose, Costa Rica! Robert and I flew out yesterday afternoon. His luggage weighed twice mine -- bikinis just don´t take up much space-- and we were on the red eye out of Denver at midnight. Before we knew it, we had landed, cleared customs and at 530 a.m. were launched onto the streets of San Jose.
The city was already awake and lively, which is more than I can say for the two of us, unwashed and rumpled tourists that we are. Our wonderful pension, Casa 69, owned by a German man from Saarbrucken, checked us in immediately. I jumped headfirst into the shower; Robert barely removed his shoes before crashing out on the bed. I left him to sleep while indulging in a perfect eggwhite omelette, which was not easy to order....I had to do some fancy explaining, and I bet they´re still talking about it. Sigh. After that, I left Robert to his repose and hit the streets of the city.
Our hotel is a bit out of the city center, (but conveniently located to the Nicaraguan embassy so it´s easy to find). I´ve put some tracks on my tennies enjoying the sights and sounds and smells. I found an ATM to withdraw the local currency but then realized I had forgotten the exchange rate and was uncertain whether I was withdrawing $10 or $1000. Zipes. Fortunately for me, I guessed correctly, and have $10 to splurge on whatever tourist fancies grip me (and there are many, many).
Sending you my love!
Love T
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)