Saturday, February 27, 2010

Rovaniemi (Lappland in Northern Finland)


Train Station




Town Square






Snowmobile safari to the Husky sled dogs ranch!




















Amazing views of the countryside



Pictures! Helsinki


Streets of Helsinki











Olympic Tower in Helsinki







Helsinki Churches

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Pictures! Stockholm, Ferry, Riga


Stockholm











Ferry to Riga








Ferry nightclub!






Birthday flowers!!


Riga


Riga Skating Rink!






Midday pick-me-up in Riga!

Pictures! Valencia, Gambia Beach, Madrid, Lisbon


Valencia Train Station




Gambia Beach







Madrid Don Quixote


Madrid pretty fountain





Lisbon


Pretty sidewalk


Belam Fortress


Navigator Monument




Pirates!!


Standing on Portugal on the big sidewalk map of the world!

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Home again, Home again

I made it home, safe and sound. Murray picked me up from the airport -- gosh, it was great to see his shining face again.

Aunt Judi welcomed me home and helped me explode my luggage to unearth treasures from my journey. My little kitties are warm and fluffy. The first thing I did was start a load of laundry. And to take a nice long bath. It is an incredible thing to travel to distant shores, and an poignant thing to come home again at the end.

I think I will sleep for a week.

Love T

Monday, February 22, 2010

Last night in Paris

Today is my last night, and fittingly I am back in Paris where it all began. The last month has flown by in a blur.... Was that me walking on the beach with the seagulls and white sand? Did I really sing karaoke on a ferry? Was that me on that snowmobile, holding on for dear life? I asked Santa for a job? I skiied?!

It has meant the world to me to share my adventures with you as I lived it, day by day. The best part about getting home will be to see each of you again. Yes, that and squeezing my sweet kitties, sleeping with my own pillow... and to not have to pay to use the toilet any more. (Bathrooms should not be a for profit enterprise. My opinion.)

Thank you again most exceptionally to Cousin Noah and Aunt Judi for caring for my sweet boys all this time to let me be away without worry. You are truly generous souls and I am so greatful to you for this tremendous service.

I will post from home that I have arrived safe and sound, and will try to toss up some pics too. Until I see you all again, I bid you a fond adieu.

Love T

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Checkpoint Charlie

Today I got up early to cram an accumulation of nearly five weeks worth of stuff into my pack. I find it impressive, how much can go into a stuffsack when proper motivation and muscle is applied. It was serious exercise tromping up and down flights of stairs to the train station to deposit my pack at Left Luggage for the day. But freed from my bag, I made a bee-line (okay, after a quick stop at Starbucks) to tour the Checkpoint Charlie museum.

The museum has expanded since the wall came down, but it still contains an eclectic mix of history, kitch, and personal stories of GDR citizens who crossed the wall (some made it, some tragically died trying). It was really moving. They still have the little VW Bug used to smuggle people out, folded into a tiny hidden compartment. In retrospect, do you think they regretted using such a small car??

They were selling chunks of the wall in the museum gift shop. I really wanted one... but introducing a heavy piece of concrete into my already bulging pack-- well, it might be the straw that broke that camel. I got a tee shirt instead :-)

My next stop was the East Gallery, a mile long section of the wall they preserved intact and invited artists from all over the world to paint. I walked the length and snapped cool pics. I walked the rest of the way back to Alexanderplatz (regretted that when my toes went numb from the cold, but hey). Fortunately, schnitzel with pommes frites --and an excellent Berliner beer-- warmed me right up.

I have a few hours left before I have to head to the Hauptbahnhof to catch my overnight train to Paris, and tomorrow is my last day before returning home... I try not to think about that. But I think about all of you frequently and am sending you my love and good thoughts!

Love T

Saturday, February 20, 2010

Berlin

Other places are about art maybe, or the view, or the shopping... but Berlin is absolutely a city of history.

First, I am rooming in a hotel located near Alexander Platz in the old Ost Berlin sector (not far from the famous TV tower). That, in and of itself, just blows my mind since the last time I was here, the wall divided the city and the eastern (Soviet) sector was a scary, tense passage through the checkpoint. But now, Ost Berlin is the hip district, the city center, and awash with tourists like myself, despite the ice and snow and slush.

But it is such fun to FINALLY be able to speak the local language, even if everyone still answers me back in English. You would think, since I can ask for directions whenever I need, that I wouldnt get lost so often, but not the case.... Figures.

This morning, I dumped my bulging pack at my hotel, and headed out onto the streets for a quick look about. I was just trying to figure out the difference between the SBahn and the UBahn when a crowd started to gather, English speakers like myself. It was a meeting point for an English language walking tour, so I joined right in. Yep, I leaped right in without considering that four hours walking the streets of Berlin -- the Brandenburg Gate, the Jewish memorial, Checkpoint Charlie, etc, etc, -- might get a tad chilly. Umm. Yes. Just a little. By the end of the third hour (Hitlers Bunker) I was a friggin popcicle. When we reached the hotel where Michael Jackson dangled his baby out the window, I my fingers and toes were painful stubs and I was looking for a way to dodge out without being noticed....

Sigh.

I stuck it out to the bitter(ly cold) end but spent my lunch money instead on a swift taxi back to my hotel where I steamed all the windows and used nearly all the water in their hot water tank.

Blissfully reheated, I wandered around the "hipster" district until my hunger caused me to start lingering more over the cafe menus than the stylish clothing shops (that is NOT like me at all!). So now I am now absolutely famished and am off to discover a place to dine. And I send you all my love.

Love T

Friday, February 19, 2010

Travel day

I am at a McDonalds iinternet cafe: crapppy keyboard but a fraction of the cost of internet in Grindelwald!

This morning I caught an early train to Interlaken where I ditched my bag andd took a long stroll throuugh town between the train stations. To my delight I foundd a fondou place that served single portions and had a rich and decadent lunch. So yummy! Espppecially the burnt bits at the bottom of the pot :-)

Two hour train and I ariived in Basel, a quirky town with personaliy to spare. I worked off some off my lunch wandering lost in thhe old town before a nice hotel lady pointed me to thhe bus to the Tinguely Museuum, recommended in my guidebook. This Basel artist created cool moving sculptures out of industrial scrap and spare household objects. You stand on a little red dot to animate the thing, spin and shuddder andd make squeeky noises. Really fun, hard to photo.

Tonight I am on the ovvernight train to Berlin.

Love you! T

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Snow and water

This morning I took careful inventory of all my moving parts -- abused by yesterday's exertions and four weeks on the road. But after consideration I pronounced myself sound, and prescribed two ibuproven with my morning coffee.

The slopes were less crowded today and the sun was out. I skiied through occasional fog banks to pristine views. I hit all my favorite runs from yesterday ... they seemed easier today for some reason :-) I called it a day when my quivering legs could take it no more, and skiied the long way down to the base of the gondola.

I was wearz and got a pretty sunburn (less cutouts the exact shape of my sunglasses), so I dropped off my gear and headed off to the sports center to avail myself of the sauna. With the ticket came access to the swimming pool and I took a nice long dip, swimming back and forth and pretending I really could swim (even though I've never been particularly good at it).

When I was completely tuckered, I headed to the sauna only to find it was strictly 'swimsuits verboten'.

Zipes. Hmmm. Yep.

Naked.

But boy did I really want that sauna and the place seemed deserted, so I discretely shed my suit, dropped my towel at the entrance and scurried in. I nearly jumped out of my skin to find another person there but she was a lady and was repine on the top shelf so I skidded to the far side and stretched out. The place smelled like cedar and mint. Absolute heaven.

Around five minutes later, the swim guard / manager guy opened the door and started talking to me! I couldn't understand a word he was saying and I would have turned beet red if not for my advanced sunburn and the sauna's heat. He finally switched to English: I had to lay on my towel, rather than on the bare wood. My bad.

I laid out my towel and resumed my repose until another sauna customer (a guy) walked in. He was naked as the day he was born. That was enough for me, and I raced out after a polite interval. :-)

Tonight I am going to treat myself to a real Swiss dinner (I have been subsidizing my skiing habit by eating out of the grocery store). Fondue is only available for two, so I will have to settle for a nice raclette or wurst. Not too shabby.

Love T

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Packed Powder

I had to give myself a serious pep talk this morning to tug on my stocking cap, heavy jacket, long johns, and to pull on the stiff enormous ski boots I rented yesterday evening. I lumbered down the stairs of my hotel, Frankenstein-lurching, picked up my skis from the ski room and walked up the block to catch the gondola. The long wait in line allowed my adrenaline to fall to a reasonable level, and I was on the slopes!

It took me a few runs to get my sea-legs (so to speak), but after that I was off to the races, just like Murray promised. I stuck to the easy routes (which were a lot more challenging than the easy routes back home- no School Marm on these trails), and it took me a good couple minutes sliding sideways down the first run before I had the courage to point my skis downhill to execute a left turn. But once that first turn was successfully accomplished, the rest (left and right) came as a breeze. I ate a hearty lunch outdoors on the mountain (goulash suppe, my favorite) and took in a few more runs before the snow started to get icy and I started to get seriously tuckered.

I had just enough energy left to race to the ski place to extend the loan on my skis for one more day. Bet I sleep good tonight :-)

Love T

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Switzerland

Extraordinary as it seems to me, I woke up this morning in big, industrial Milan and now I am hanging out in a ski town in central Switzerland! I am constantly confusing languages, sometimes speaking in German, sometimes Italian, Spanish, and maybe even a Portugese word slips in now and again. Since I speak barely 25 words in any of those tongues (except German, which is pathetically rusty). It is very confusing to the locals who beg me to speak in English....!

Grindelwald is a familiar spot, since Mom, Murray and I traveled here frequently when we were younger. Not much has changed; it is still charming and picturesque and quitissentially Swiss. Practically everyone on the streets are calling it a night, lugging skis and poles, and searching out the best spot for some steaming hot chocolate.

I have checked out the local joints and found a spot to rent skis too -- if I can get up the courage to strap them to my weary feat and toss myself down a slippery slope. Murray says it all comes back to you: the schussing and snow plow. But after a month of a big pack strapped to my back, my wee knees are jelly and it quivers my timbers, the idea of taking that tram up hundreds of feet in the air! But it will be an unforgettable adventure and I cannot resist.

Aunt Judi reports at dinner with M&N that she is well and my boys are doing fine (and apparently not driving her too crazy, thank goodness). I miss their sweet purrs. I miss you all as well and am sending you my good thoughts. I return in one week, and though it seems I am really getting the hang of this traveling thing, I am looking forward to that exquisite feeling of coming home.

Love T

Monday, February 15, 2010

Milan

First class in Italian trains is much better than second class, and with my EurRail, my short ride to Milan this morning was just a breeze.

I took the metro to my hotel, but it was somehow loads more confusing than any I have been in before, and I rode the wrong direction -- twice. Then on steet level, I walked the wrong direction -- twice -- before finally finding my hotel, which is a dump (and at 60 euros a night, that's an outrage!). I confess I only came to Milan since the overnight train service to Switzerland from Rome had been discontinued, but I am making the best of it. Milan is known for fashion, right? So off I went to the famous (according to my guidebook) rectangle of streets that are Milan's high fashion district.

I lasted two of the legs of the rectangle before I got tired of looking at 500 euro scarfs (!), and headed toward the Duomo, Milan's spectacular gothic cathedral. In the low mist of the city, it looked etherial.

And nearby, the shops are not as high fashion, but definitely closer to my price range. On my to-do list for this trip (along with Abba in Stockholm, snow angel on the Arctic Circle) is to buy a pair of shoes in Milan. Since there are thousands of shoe shops, it shouldn't be hard (though I really hate shoe shopping, so maybe I will settle for getting new socks).

Tomorrow I have my morning train to Gimmelwald, Switzerland.

Love you!

Tory

Sunday, February 14, 2010

A day for blessings

Today was a day for blessings! I rose early and avoided the lines to tour St Peters Basilica. I snapped countless pics and wandered around the truly spectacular interior. I met an English language guide (a really nice lady from Ohio), who gave me a little mini-tour, and described the history and what all the popes buried in the nave were noted for having done. I was really impressed that it is a working church; there was a priest there giving blessings to the children, and others hearing confessions, and lots of nuns walking about (they all wear sensible shoes, just like in the movies!)

I wandered down to the Tiber for a while too but was back in the main courtyard just in time for Pope Benedict to give his blessing to the thousands that had gathered. He spoke for about 10 minutes (in Italian)-- I understood the word Beatitudes a couple of times, so I think it may have been on them? Anyway, after he said Amen, he started speaking in English! He gave a blessing to those of us assembled and those whom they hold in their hearts-- that would be every one of you, my friends and family, who are so dear to me. I was very moved, and felt very blessed :-)

After pizza for lunch, I balanced the religious history with a visit to Rome's largest Jewish Synagogue, and the area of the old Jewish Ghetto. I snapped pics of the Kosher Italian food signs.

And finally I found Trevi Fountain, took my reserved coin (a tuppence piece left over from London), and tossed it into the fountain requesting for my true heart's desire. And wouldn't you know but that not 15 minutes later, it delivered: I found a self service laundramat! If I have time, I'm going to go back with maybe like a couple Euros or so :-)

But right now, I'm off to find another pizzaria, and am sending you my love. Tomorrow I am scheduled to quit Rome's banks for Milan.

Love T

Saturday, February 13, 2010

All Roads lead to ...

All roads lead to ROME! Gosh, I can hardly believe I made it here.

It was a long haul, and I had gotten a little soft, spoiled by the deluxe accomodations onboard the Finnish trains. This Italian train was a bit more basic. The bunks were stacked three to a side, six people in the tiny compartment, like so many fillets of sardine. And every berth was occupied, three guys and three of us girls (mixed coaches, another first). I made good friends with a Dutch lady, a theology student on her way with a group to tour Rome. And I treated myself to dinner on the train, notable more for its cost than the quality of the cuisine (served on paper plates). The bunks were so hard, I imagined myself as comfortable snoozing on my own dining room table at home....

But we arrived safe and sound (and all belongings intact -- thank goodness!!). Fueled by the second half of a small back of potato chips and a tepid espresso, I was off to wander the streets of Rome. First, I navigated my way to my accomodations-- a charming monestary right on the wall surrounding the Vatican. The nun / receptionist spoke no English, and barefoot probably didn't even clear 5 foot, but she was awfully nice and my room is simple but comfy.

I took the metro to the Spanish Steps, which I remember so well from our family EurRail trip to Rome years ago. They were smaller than I remembered, but there was still a McDonalds nearby and lots of people lounging and snapping pics. And I wandered the streets admiring the fashions and reveling in the sunshine (it's positively balmy). Next I took the metro two stops to see the Trevi Fountain. I surfaced and walked for a while, and arrived back at the Spanish Steps, having missed the friggin fountain entirely! Chagrin. Next time, I will take care not to leave my city map at one of the fashion shops along the way :-)

Goodnight dear friends and family. I am off to find a pizzaria with my name on it. I might accidently end up at Spanish Steps again, but that would be okay too :-)

Love T

Friday, February 12, 2010

Chunnel!

I only have a few minutes before I have to dash off to catch my train to Rome, where I plan to slow my itinerary a bit and linger for three days. Heaven!

This morning I was up with the early birds thanks to the 2 hour time change and hungry again, even after a hearty meal of beef stew and chips and a British ale. After breakfast at my hotel I was off to the Eurostar for my ride on the chunnel! I expected it to be fancier or somehow more historic, but the train was pretty ordinary (except for the going under the English Channel part). I made it an extra special occasion by eating my picnic of goodies, indulging in a glass of red wine, and reading the opening chapters of Dickens Tale of Two Cities, until it put me to sleep :-)

Now I have just a few hours to grab a snack and hurry off for my long haul overnight train to Rome, so I will sign off and send you my love!

Love T

Thursday, February 11, 2010

London Calling

After a nice breakfast in Tallinn I was off to the airport bound for London. I was really excited to change out of my snowboots and tuck away my long underwear for awhile. I arrived in London and made a lengthy commute into the city via regional rail and then the tube, and found my hotel with no problem. It is so nice to be able to speak English!! I had missed lunch entirely and was really hungry... but I am only in London for just tonight! Priorities must be observed.

So, I quizzed the receptionist, and he happily supplied me with directions to the fashion district on Oxford street. He indicated it was maybe 15 minutes on foot... I made it in 10.

Wow! Not as fashion forward as Paris or Barcelona, maybe, but this city has a life of its own! The people were out on the streets hussling and bussling, and I took careful note at the intersections for to look right or look left. Traffic here is crazy. After my forray into the retail world -- not too expensive, mindful always of the limitations of my luggage, let alone my budget -- I undertook the unwinding of myself back to my hotel.

That is when I discovered Lancaster is a different word than Leinster, and that there is a Craven Hill, Craven Terrace, and not one but three portions of Craven Hill Gardens (the street my hotel is on) none of which are connected... sigh. It took my last bit of energy to drop by the hotel and make my way to the restaurant area, whereupon I stumbled (after asking directions three times) on this lovely internet cafe. Grin!

So now I finally am off to seek sustinence in the pubs of London. Tomorrow is a major travel day-- Chunnel to Paris (reading Dickens' A Tale of Two Cities the whole way) then from Paris, an evening departure for the overnight train to Rome.

Love you and miss you and am sending you the travelers wisdom I gained today: it is always a good thing to look BOTH ways before venturing into the streets (and always bring a good map) :-)

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Estonia!

After a light dinner at the McD´s in Rovaniemi (the northermost branch), I had just enough time to catch the train back to Helsinki. My navigational skills were much improved by following the Aussie from the snowmobile earlier in the day -- we were booked on the same train, plus the same ferry to Tallinn, and compared travel stories while hanging out waiting.

The short ferry to Helsinki was delightfully uneventful (it still makes me nervous plowing through ice in a cruise ship), and after checking in at my hostel, I was off to explore Old Town Tallinn. It was brilliantly sunny. And -7 degrees.

I lasted about 2 hours before I had to come scurrying back to my room, my fingers frozen to little red points at the end of my coat sleeves. I can´t say that I saw very much -- I was too cold to do serious sightseeing in the churches and old fortress, so I just went in and out of all the craft and souveineer shops.. and was perfectly contented:-)

Back in my room I showered away 2 days worth of accumulated dirt and grime, used fully one quarter of the bottle of shampoo I bought in Portugal, and burrowed under the covers for a quick rest that lasted 3 hours. Ahhhhhhh.

Now I am fully restored and hungry, so I am off to forrage for dinner. I love you and am thinking of you! Thanks again for the great email Ryan. By the way, the snow in DC must have been really something; it is all everyone is talking about over here.

I am just looking forward to walking on pavement again someday soon. Tomorrow, my flight to London!

Love T

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Rovaniemi

Today was all about adventure as I arrived this morning in Rovaniemi, in the north of Finland, right on the Arctic Circle (according to Dad I´m a blue-nose now!) Some other tourists with a great sense of direction and I made our way to the information office just in time to sign up for a snowmobile tour. They dressed us up in snowmobile gear -- full snow suit, thick socks and boots, hat, mittens, etc, etc. I looked like a big orange snowman by the time we were finished. And then off of the snowmobiles! I was paired with an Aussie with a lead foot. Gosh we just flew! We went on the river (frozen solid) and then up into the woods where we stopped to thaw out and visit a Siberian Husky ranch. There, we each got a turn going around the pasture on the dog sled -- fortunately, the dogs were well trained and didn't require I actually steer the thing since I was holding on for dear life! We got to see the puppies and I fell instantly in love with a half dozen or so of them. Darling little faces! On our return, it was my turn to drive. WOW! What a rush! I surprised myself with how much I enjoyed the speed and the bumps and the adrenaline coursing through my veins! After a hearty lunch (all of this was before lunch!) I made my way to the Arctic Circle point and Santa´s village. It was really neat. I got to meet Santa and we chatted for quite a while. He had visited Seattle recently, he said, about two months ago... tee hee hee. He must get a kick out of that joke with every visitor! I told him I had been a very good girl, and though I contemplated asking for world peace, I ended up just asking for a job. That´s not too selfish is it? Anyway, he said he´d send his elves to go networking for me :-) (I only hope he´s not going to wait until Christmas to deliver....)

The best part of Santa´s village was the post office. They had an exhibit of all the letters to Santa that had been delivered. They said all the letters posted to Santa are channeled to Rovaniemi. Volunteers open the letters and collect them by country. The USA had a big stack. Alphabetically next to it, Uganda even had a few in there!

I have to dash but I am sending you my love! Overnight train tonight is back to Helsinki so I can catch the quick ferry hop to Tallinn!

Love T

Monday, February 8, 2010

Churches

Hey! Since it´s Monday and all the museums were closed, today was all about visiting Helsinki´s churches. There is a great variety, including one that is blasted out of the bedrock, underground. The Orthodox architecture is really beautiful; this city reminds me of St Petersburg, with wide boulevards and tall, even buildings of every color. I bought a tourist card on the tram system and loved roaming the streets between stops, drinking in the atmosphere. But, since it has been snowing all day, I frequently ducked into shops and cafes to warm up my poor fingers and toes. Fortunately, the coffee is rich and strong, and served very, very hot.

I also made it to the top of the Olympic tower (built for the games in the 40´s), from which I snapped beautiful panoramics and cheezy shots of me mugging it for the camera.

As much as I would love to linger days in Helsinki, I have a train leaving in just a few hours for Rovaniemi, right on the Arctic Circle, and (reportedly) terrestrial home to Santa Claus.

I am excited to see if I made the good girl list, or if I need to straighten up my act!

Love you,

T

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Finland!

Last night's boat was the best yet. It was a regular cruise ship, and crowded with merry makers of a multitude of nationalities. I've stopped trying to distinguish Finnish from Swedish, but I could detect Russian whereever I went. The ship was 12 floors, the 7th a grand Promenade with ceiling open to the 12th floor and glass elevators, and restaurants and shops lining the way. Swanky! There was a string quartet playing along the row, and even a tightrope act above the promenade(which I bet doesn't do very well in rough seas!).

I roomed with a young Russian woman, just graduated college, and two other ladies. The young woman spoke exceptional English, and we really hit it off, having a love for travel in common. Underway, she and I visited the sauna onboard, to take the chill off our weary bones. I was overdressed in my bathing suit, but it felt so wonderful to be warm (hot even). Everyone was congenial and relaxed and contented (or maybe that was just me), and the experience was unmatched. In the evening I hung out at an Irish pub on the Promenade and listened to a Swedish guitar player belt out accustic versions of Rolling Stones, Simon & Garfunkle, the Beetles, and the Beach Boys hits. Classic.

And now I am in Finland! A light snow was falling as we docked and I checked into the posh Hotel Haven. They admitted me to my room immediately, and I spent nearly half an hour under the shower, feeling clean for the first time in days. I had decided this place would be a rest stop, and after wandering the streets for a bit I put myself to bed and slept for hours. Everything in Helsinki is terribly expensive-- my dinner not excluded-- but I am wonderfully contented with a belly filled with steamed vegetables, mushroom stuffed cabbage rolls, and vanilla ice cream :-)

Thank you again for the notes and reminders of home. I love you all so much and am dragging you along to all the tourist spots with me in my heart. I am taking tons of photos but haven't found a place yet to send them. I will keep looking :-)

Love T

Saturday, February 6, 2010

More about boats

I am really loving traveling on boats! I met some really interesting folks on my mini-cruise back to Stockholm. It reminds me how talking to people you would not otherwise meet makes each experiece infinitely more rich and memorable than just for the buildings and postcard views :-)

This morning arrived in Stockholm and just had a short day to spend before I zip off to my ferry bound for Helsinki. The ferry crossing was much more gentle this time, and I awoke in the morning to the roar of our boat grinding through ice-- sounded like rumbling thunder. I dropped my bag in left luggage at the station and walked a long icy boulevard to a different island in Stockholm to visit the Vasa Museum.

I learned the Vasa was a warship built some time in the 1600s for battle against Poland (Sweden´s enemy at the time). The ship was huge, beautifully carved, and held 450 people (soldiers plus crew). With great fanfare it was launched into Stockholm harbor. And it went a short way no problem before it started to sort of list a bit to the right.... then it righted itself... and then listed to the left. Somehow it got all the way into the channel when a big gust of wind filled the sails, and the thing keeled over completely and promptly sank.

Oops!

Three hundred years later, the industrious Swedes dug it out of the mud and mire at the bottom of the channel and preserved it, hull to keel. It is now a museum, with the whole ship suspended into open space. It was really cool!

I walked by a hundred or so smorgesbord cafes before I found excellent Thai takeout for lunch -- pickled herring is simply not in my itinerary. Found it just in time too, as my poor wee fingers were popsicles by then. My cheeks are always rosy :-)

I am off to catch the ferry, but I am thinking of you all and wishing you well!

Love T

Friday, February 5, 2010

My day in Riga

I am just about to sprint off to catch my ferry back to Helsinki, but I have just enough time to tell you I am well and somewhat thawing out :-)

Riga treated me exceptionally well for my birthday abroad. I took myself to a traditional restaurant for an authentic Latvian dinner (steak and potatoes -- I love this place!), and vanilla ice cream with chocolate sprinkles for dessert. Just scrumptuous, after some sketchy meals Ive had the past few days. After dinner, I decided to burn off some of those extra calories by going ice skating at the outdoor rink in the open square just a few yards from my hotel. It was really embarassing, but I surprised myself by how much fun I had, clinging to the rail as I got up as much speed as I dared. The little kids, half my height, were wizzing by and yucking it up... but then, so was I!

This morning I was half frozen by the end of my walking tour of Old Town Riga, and ready for hot coffee and lunch. Since then, Ive been wandering the streets, especially admiring the amber jewelry shops, of which there are hundreds.

For today I bid you adieu. Love you!

Love T

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Tears of Happiness (the best kind)

Hey everyone!

Imagine if you will: I arrived this morning at the port of Riga. It was a one mile trudge on 12 inches of powder, on slushy icy cobblestone streets, my pack on my back the whole way (I biffed it sideways into a snow bank at one point -- very embarrassing). Cold and winded, I eventually found my sweet hotel, checked in, and opened the door to my room for the night. And what greeted me when I walked in was a huge bouquet of yellow daffodils and daisies and an extraordinary note written in a foreign hand: Dear Tory, Happy Birthday! Love Mom and Dad.

I was so moved I hugged the stuffing out of the receptionist, whom I caught a little off guard, and cried tears of happiness... the best kind. Thank you, thank you Mom and Dad. I have no idea how you could coordinate to have a spring bouquet arrive in Latvia in my room on this special day but it makes me love you and miss you all the more! They are exquisite!

Here is how I spent the last day of my (gulp) 39th year:

The snow began in earnest after I left the (rather dull) Nobel museum, and by the time I made the long hike back to my hotel, my day bag had frozen shut. I didn't even know Velcro could freeze, but there you go. I made it to the shuttle bus to the ferry terminal with seconds to spare.

The ferry was not a commuter ferry; rather, it was more like a small cruise ship. There were four restaurants on board, a casino, a night club and lounge. I hung out in the lounge to take in the show. The ferry was pretty empty but a small audience gathered. The house band was a Bulgarian group which played exclusively American popular music from the 40s to the 90s. They opened with Fly me to the Moon, then Hound Dog, and so it went. The mix was eclectic, and not a little surreal. Their rendition of Chers Do You Believe in Life After Love nearly brought down the house.

To add to the atmosphere, the ferry was celebrating "Russian Week" and between sets, a group of Russian dancers graced the stage. How they kept their balance, I have no idea. The seas of the Baltic were icy, cold, and very rough. The boat creaked from side to side with a definite tilt. I joined our small audience in dancing to the band whenever the house band played a song from the 80s or later. When the show ended, our little group drifted to the Karaoke bar where I ticked another item off my must do list: sing karaoke ABBA in Stockholm. Okay, maybe we were in international waters by then, but proximity counts.

"Thank you for the Music" is now my absolute favorite ABBA song, and a priceless memory :-)

This morning, I awoke to port in Riga, and feel so truly blessed to be entering my 40th year with the exceptional friends and family that I have in each of you. And a special message for my very special brother: HAPPY BIRTHDAY MURRAY! And for the matchless Nikole, whose 40th is not far off, I add a HAPPY BIRTHDAY NIKOLE! And we can all celebrate!

Love T

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Brrr! Redux

Hey everyone! I´m not sure what happened to my post from yesterday (most likely user error -- my user error), so pardon if I repeat.

I am writing from Stockholm today, and Sweden is really cool! Yesterday, I flew out of Lisbon at o-dark-early. It was so sad to say goodbye to Portugal. I met wonderful people, locals and tourists alike, and I am already planning to return....

But I was so excited to be on my way to Scandanavia! Back in Lisbon, I put on my layers and my snowboots so I would be prepared. My long underwear were itching the whole 4 hour flight. But I was greatful for extra clothes when I arrived: Stockholm is gorgeous, vibrant, and maybe just a tad bit chilly (understatement!). The streets are snowy and when the wind blows I imagine it is straight off the north pole. All the cars are Volvos and Saabs. The art is incredible and everything is exceptionally expensive except for vodka :-)

My hotel was really swanky -- Bopcha would have appreciated the set of dumbells and workout video for guests use in every room! The kind reception staff assisted me in finding the terminal station so I could buy my ferry tickets for tonight´s departure and I saved money finding a gem of a Mexican takeout place not far from my hotel for dinner :-)

This afternoon, I am all bundled up and having fun exploring the old town, an island just south of the Central Station. It´s full of interesting cafes and shops and every street is narrow and picturesque. The Nobel museum is somewhere on this island and I am determined to locate it-- even if I have to walk into every stylish dress shop to find it :-)

Tonight I am off to Riga!

Love T

Monday, February 1, 2010

A few necessarios...

Ola everyone!

You all know I'm not what you would call an adventurous eater, right? I mean, I've toured exceptional culinary destinations only to venture forward with mushroom pizza at every stop. But last night, I was feeling uncharacteristically bold, and I took my hotel receptionist's recommendation for an authentic meal: Portugese stew. I love stew, and so long as it was't seafood (which I hate) I figured it would be sort of adventurous.

I went to the place recommended (the opposite direction of the tourist square). It had maybe half a dozen tables, and soccer on the TV. I had no idea how to even order this dish, but there was a guy eating it a few tables over, so I pointed to his bowl and said 'yes'. (This is really embarassing, in retrospect). Anyway, it seemed to work: after a bit, the waiter brought a huge bowl of savory stew and a huge hunk of bread. I tried a bite. YUMMY!! It was thick and rich and had lots of beans and carrots and cabbage, and bits of meat.... um, yeah, all different kinds of meat. And the closer I looked, more like bits of tripe! Ewww! Gag me! Okay, so I wimped out and from that part of the pot on, I only ate the bits that were positively identifable as non-carnivore. But it was still delicious :-)

This morning I visited an elevator that was designed by a student of Eifel. It didn't really go anywhere but up to a platform with a great view, but I thought it was cool.

This afternoon, I have to take care of a few necessarios: laundry is at the top of the list. Actually, it's a short list. I MUST do laundry or my blue jeans will be able to walk without me. And I don't even want to talk about my socks.

Tomorrow I have an early flight to Stockholm, so I'm off to drink in as much of this sunshine and warmth as I can-- while my skivies are tumbling :-)

Love you, T