Sunday, January 31, 2010

Henry the Navigator

Hey everyone!

My train to Lisbon went off without a hitch, though I was seduced yesterday afternoon by the comfy white couch in the tiny lobby of my hotel and never made it to the Prado. Criminal, I know, but I was getting a little worn out.

But something in the air of Lisbon has restored me. It´s hard to describe, but from the moment I got off the train I have felt like I belonged. The streets are cobblestoned in beautiful mosaics, the architecture a kaleidoscope of colors and styles. And within moments of dropping my pack off at my little blue hotel, I was on the doubledecker tourist bus headed straight for the Henry the Navigator monument.

It was one of the things I have been waiting to see... something about exploring the big wide unknown that thrills my toes. I got great pics. Nearby I wandered through the Belem Tower, sort of a stone fortress built half in the middle ages and half a century or so ago. Next, I went inside the cloisters of an old monestary, and caught the cathedral just as Sunday mass was ending. Vasco da Gama was buried there -- he's the explorer who blazed the trade route to India which put Portugal on the map!

Outside the Navigator was a huge compass mosaic built into the square, with a map of the globe. I stood over the spot where Seattle is, and waved hello to all of you, and missed you very much! But then I stood over the Portugal spot and thought of that yummy empanada I had for lunch.... :-)

Love T

Saturday, January 30, 2010

Off to Lisbon!

Ola everyone!

Today is Saturday and instead of going to the Palace Residence or the Bull Fighting museum, I decided to do what all the rest of Madrid is doing -- walking the broad boulevards and enjoying the sunshine. Whenever I get sleepy (not infrequent in this brilliant sunshine), I head into Starbucks for an espresso to perk me up(there´s one on nearly every street, just like home).

I snapped some great photos of the statue of Cervantes and his famous Don Quixote. A friendly tourist and I swapped cameras so I could be in the shot and then I returned the favor. This is pretty common, but always I am careful to hand over my camera only to someone I think I can out-run ;-)

This evening I hope to go to the Prado Museum which has extensive Spanish artist collections (El Greco and Goya, among many) that should make for a nice end to my tour around Spain.

Tonight I bit Espania a fond adios-- my overnight train for Lisbon leaves at 10 and I´ve got a bunk all reserved. (I sure hope they have air circulation on this train). I´m really excited to see the other side of the coast!

I hope Aunt Judi is doing okay at my house, that my sweet boys are behaving themselves, and that everyone is doing great. I think of you all very often!

Love T

Friday, January 29, 2010

a little from column A, a little from column B...

Ola mi Familia e Amigos!

Events conspired to make today the best ever, the worst imaginable, and end on a pleasant note. Imagine if you will...

It was a one mile hike from my little Valencia apartment to the main train station. I arrived in just enough time to mail a few postcards before I boarded the train for Madrid. On a whim, I decided to pay the 3 Euro supplement required by my EurRail for a reservation in the first class car. And what I expected to be a dull 3.5 hour train ride became the queen´s treatment for the day. Before we had left the station, I was offered champaigne (why say no?). Then, every 15 minutes or so, the staff came down the aisle with more gifts. A small packet of dates and peanuts? Sure! Coke with lemon? Why not? A hot towel to wash your hands? A full lunch menu with salad, cheese ravioli, fresh bread... more bread, then wine, espresso, it went on and on. Arriving in the station, I said yes for the final time: a small piece of Swiss chocolate-- one for the road. Exquisite.

In Madrid, I negotiated my way on the metro to the hotel I had booked for the night. Up till this point it existed to me only as a webpage, and it´s always such a shock to see it appear in real life before my eyes. My back was aching from lugging my pack so I made my way up the stairs to reception.

Here´s where column B comes in. Reception spoke no English, but I could tell there was a problem... the hotel was overbooked and I had been bumped into another hotel. But see, it is not a problem, because it is only 5 or 10 minutes walk. She wrote the address on a scrap of paper. Just exit the building and turn left...

Yeah right.

I walked left, I walked right, lugging my pack all the way. I followed the directions of friendly locals: turn left at the Arab restaurant (it was Greek); turn right off the circle (it was a square). On and on I went, over an hour, my back aching and sweaty, my spirits flagging. Eventually I triangulated from all the directions and found the place. She´d written the name of the street down wrong, so that´s why it wasn´t on any of the maps. Sigh. I checked into my room, slammed the door and burst into tears. Not my finest moment.

But after my tantrum was over (and the pack was off my back), I launched myself onto the streets of Madrid. Valencia was a sleepy provincial town, but Madrid is alive! There are people everywhere: the good, the bad, and the tourists. I snapped pics of street performers and went window shopping in a vast pedestrian district. Tonight I´ll consult my map and find out where I´ve been :-)

Love T

Thursday, January 28, 2010

My vacation

Hey Friends and Family!

This morning I decided to take a mini-vacation from sightseeing, a total change of pace. I boarded a regional train headed straight south to a small town called Gandia (I´d never heard of it before). Upon arrival I headed straight for the Information Office. They had a stack of dusty brochures on the area monestaries of historical signifance.... and a map of the bus route to the beach. Guess where I went??

The heavy surf pounded on the sand, clean and white and sparkly. The beach was bordered by a long broad boardwalk, along which --judging from the number of cafes and bars-- must be some kind of tourist mecca in the summertime.... But today, I had the beach practically to myself. And that suited me just fine :-)

After lunch at one of the few open establishments (popular for its location, since the food was clearly an afterthought), I strolled along the seashore until the bus arrived to bring me back to the train station, and back ´home´ to Valencia.

Tonight I will cook dinner for myself again in my little kitchen. Last night I made soft tacos, which turned out not half bad. Tonight I hope to improve on my receipe!

Love T

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Mmmmm Oranges

Hey everyone!

I'm in Valencia! I took a train this morning from Barcelona, after spending yesterday evening in my hotel room in bliss, eating take-out meatballs and drinking red wine.

The train ride was just over 3 hours, relaxing and a view of the blue blue coast, and so many orange trees. They went on for ages, row after row. Many of the trees were heavily laden with fruit. I didn't know oranges grew in winter, but they seem to manage nicely here.

The weather is mild and sunny, and Valencia is just as I imagined a Spanish town to be: the pastel colored buildings have iron railings and flower boxes in the windows. There are tapas bars on virtually every corner, and the winding streets open into charming plazas, all of which have cool names. The town is pretty quiet right now.... it seems to become lively even later in the afternoon than Barcelona. If I go much further south I'll be eating dinner at midnight!

I'm roomed in an apartment, rather than a hotel. It has a complete kitchen, and is on the top floor with a pretty view of the roofs of the other buildings around. It's right off a plaza called Conde Bunol, near Plaza San Nicolas.

I am sending you my love!

Love T

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Pics

Murray´s street in Paris


Barcelona outdoor market






Christopher Columbus statue




Sagrada Familia Cathedral
















Drew-- check out the snail carving on the cathedral!


Sculpture Garden








Cool Signs




Love Tory

Sunny day

Hey everyone!

It´s brilliantly sunny and I can feel the warmth radiating into my bones. A welcome change from the rain, and excellent timing for today´s adventures, scoping for sights by Barcelona´s first son, Gaudi.

His influence is everywhere! Even some of the streetlights are designed by him -- no signs are needed; you can pick these lamps out of a crowd. But nothing compared to the wonder and excitement for the Sagrada Familia. This is the cathedral he spent the last 20 years of his life designing, and which is still under construction according to the plans he drew before his death.

The design is unlike anything I´ve ever seen, all about organic shapes and colors, so there was nary a straight line to mar the effect. The interior pillars are towering trees, the capitals like flowing branches. The stained glass is vivid. I took an elevator up one of the towers-- one of the very tall towers. Dizzying heights. It offered a great view of the city and the construction of the central tower. But I confess I was too chicken to walk back down the windy staircase. Instead I stuck my camera over the edge to get a shot of what it looked like :-)

After the cathedral, I took the metro to the Gaudi sculpture garden. What a place! It was colorful and curvy and full of people basking in the sunshine. If I lived here, I would want to come to this place for a picnic every sunny day.

This evening I will wander around the old town near my hotel, like I did yesterday afternoon. There´s tons of retail therapy opportunities for a girl still recovering from Paris sticker-shock.

Noah emailed and said my precious kitties were doing well. I hope Aunt Judi arrives safe and has a okay time while she takes over minding my wee charges. I appreciate them both so much for this tremendous favor.

I´ve got a USB connection at this e-cafe, so I´ll post some more pics.

Buenos Noches!

Love T

Monday, January 25, 2010

Ola!

Ola! I have arrived in Barcelona and send you my Castilian greetings!

Yesterday, I spent the most wonderful day at the Louvre and snapped many pics. I especially loved the pyramid, which is now the entrance to the museum. It is maybe a little odd in the context of the grandiose structures of the musuem grounds, but it gives the whole place a real cache!

On the long walk back to the hotel to claim my luggage, I suffered a bout of uncertainty about the start of my adventure. But the woman at the hotel, with whom I´d become quite good friends, was encouraging and my excitement was restored. I was off to the train station with time to spare.

And the train was super comfy, and warm too. As a matter of fact, it got positively toasty, with me and 3 other women stacked on top of eachother in the tiny compartment. By 2 am, it was easily over 90 degrees. I couldn´t sleep it was so hot. But the lady below me could sleep just fine: she snored the whole night.

By around 4 am it was unbearable, and then... they must have fixed the ventilation because the fresh air started to flow. Blessed relief! I crashed out for the few hours until we arrived. Oi. I think I aged a week in that 12 hours. But once in the city, WOW! The cool rain felt wonderful. And it is amazing what a double espresso shot will do to your spirits. I am refreshed and excited to start the day! Bet I sleep good tonight.

I am off to see if Gaudi´s architecture really is all that -- I suspect I´ll be impressed :-)

Love T

Sunday, January 24, 2010

Off to Barcelona

Hello all!

Just a quick note, because today I check out of my comfy Parisian digs in exchange for a berth on tonight's overnight train to Barcelona! The butterflies in my tummy are all a flutter. But my timing is excellent -- a few more days in this fashion capitol, and my backpack would explode. Definitely a step up from the normal tourist crap I usually lug back :-)

To occupy the time between now and my evening departure, I was debating between the Louvre and chilling out at the chez chic Paris Starbucks. The museum won out, but maybe I'll stop to get my 'bucks fix on the way.

Till tomorrow!

Love T

Saturday, January 23, 2010

All about the hunchback

Hello Friends & Family!

I am perfecting the art of self-catering: I pick up the fixings for breakfast at the bakeries the night before, eat an exceptional French cuisine lunch, then mine the grocery store dinner for whatever looks good. I have discovered even the grocery French wine is delicious, the salami top notch. Cultural note, all the mustard is dijon -- must be a union thing or something :-)

I toured Notre Dame this morning. I have been there before and still am humbled by the awesome structure. I lit a candle and said a prayer of rememberence and thanksgiving for the lives of dear Granny and Uncle Matt, as I do at every cathedral I visit.

I learned its restoration, centuries ago, was started due to the resurgence in popularity it received after Victor Hugo published The Hunchback of Notre Dame. So it was only fitting I next visit Hugo's home, which was not far away. His apartment had been restored to the original decoration, designed by Hugo himself. All I can say is, it is a good thing he could write; the man had a design sensibility of loud colors and prints that could harm the weak eyed!

I spent the afternoon (after lunch of exceptional pea soup, mushroom risotto and sweet crepes-- made me quiver), strolling down Champes Elysees until I got shopper fatigue and headed home. I bought a hat :-)

Thanks again so much for your notes and emails!

Love Tory

Friday, January 22, 2010

Some pics

Some pics. I look really cheezy...

The pension


Eifel Tower











Rodin- the thinker




Sacre Coeur
















New view

Hey friends and family!

I love your notes, almost as good as email. To clarify, I wimped out and took the elevator in the UP direction. The top deck was closed (socked in by clouds) so we only made it to the 2nd level. It was totally familiar from our trip -- was it really 25 years ago!

And today, another bright day in Paris! The theme ingredient of the day was the metro, which I navigated with ease to find the matchless Sacre Coeur cathedral. Clear skies, I climbed the stairs (lots and lots of stairs) onto the dome itself, and snapped crazy pics of gargoyles and the skyline of the city.

I have moved from my tiny pension in the 15th district to a lovely spot right in the heart of the city. It's positively posh compared to my last place and I am feeling I was born to live in Paris. My room is on the 5th floor and overlooks the action below. I was really self conscious wearing my big mountain pack onto the Metro but I needent have bothered... at Opera station, a lady boarded my car and started singing. Loudly. Nobody gave me even a passing glance :-)

Well, I am off to explore my new neighborhood, so I bid you adieu! Nikole and Noah, give kisses to my precious Chat Noirs. I miss them so much -- you humans too :-)

Love you all!

Tory

Thursday, January 21, 2010

The fine arts

Hello friends and family!

I have overcome my technical problems -- nothing like a password reset to make the world turn right again :-)

This morning I was an early bird, thanks to a touch of jetlag. I plotted my course to the Eifel Tour over a cappicuno and baguette roll and walked boldly onto the still dark streets of Paris. Unfortunately I was walking in the complete wrong direction... but I snapped some charming photos of the city waking up before I retraced my steps to the direction of the tower.

I arrived just as it opened and what a view! It was pretty quiet, not many tourists yet, but we few snapped pics companionably with eachothers cameras and watched the sky get light. I felt very intrepid, and walked down from the second level (shaking in my boots the whole way).

My next stop was the Rodin Museum which I had heard was having a special exhibit of Rodin and Matisse. They were contemporaries-- and apparently didn't think much of eachother. But side by side, I would give my nod to Matisse :-)

After the museum I wandered the streets in the direction of the river until I was too cold and hungry to continue. I stopped for lunch near the Seine. French onion soup (they call it onion soup here) was so hot and cheesy I nearly cried. And I think I embarassed my waiter with my profusive compliments to the chef for my grilled cheese sandwhich.

I will seek out a chocolate shop to fortify myself for the long trek back to the hotel.

Love you all and thank you so much for your notes!

Tory

Monday, January 18, 2010

The countdown is on!

All the anticipation and planning for weeks and months is about to bear its fruit. I'm off to Paris tomorrow!

A few stats for the record:
Flight departure: 1:45 pm
Pack: 25 lbs
Packing list:
Mittens
Jeans & Tees
Long Underwear
Bikini
Snow Boots
Flip Flops
Camera, Kindle, and iPod
and...
Me!

Check out the pics. Do I look like an adventurer? Can anyone else see that sort of tilt I have when I'm wearing my pack?





Love Tory