Monday, October 31, 2011

Murray is here!

Murray arrived safe and sound and looking fresh as a daisy! We´re off to El Calafate!

Love T

Sunday, October 30, 2011

Sunshine and Street Fairs

Greetings Friends and Family!

Yesterday after posting, I retired to my themed boudoir -- every room is different, and mine features a famous Argentine crooner of Tango fame. A little cheezy, it's absolutely perfect, and wonderfully cozy.

I crashed hard for a few hours, but woke in time for a late dinner (though still early by Argentine standards). I slipped on some pretty sandals and wandered out in search of my evening meal. My footsteps led me back to the familiar square I'd visited earlier in the day. And using the old tourist wisdom of eating where the locals eat, I passed many fancy, dimly lit steak houses with English translated menus on their windows, until I found a big pizzaria, filled to bursting with chatter and laughter, and doing a brisk takeout business. My waiter was patient as I stumbled through the menu (thank Heaven pizza and mozzarella are the same in all languages). The pizza was fab! Stuffed, I retreated back to my Tango Singer digs, my compliments to the chef still ringing in my ears.

This morning, I slept wonderfully late but still hit the streets as the city was waking up. A simple breakfast of coffee and croissant took me to the La Boca district I'd failed to reach yesterday. It was choc-a-bloc with tourists like me; Though I didn't encounter any Americans, there were tons of Brits. We all reveled in the sunshine, and as the afternoon went on, it grew positively warm! Tons of pics later, I returned via the San Telmo Street Market which is easily a mile long, both sides of the street lined with artists, leather goods, trinkets, street performers, empanadas, tango dancers, and music, music everywhere. I lunched cheaply on a slice of specialty pizza -- flakey pastry dough with tomatoes, cheese, ham, and eggs, for only 7ARS (less than US$2) and invested my savings in tourist trinkets at the Market. A wonderful day.

I'm so excited for tomorrow and Murray's arrival which signals the beginning of our Grand Trek. I will set up my cell phone this afternoon (since I forgot all about it yesterday).

Love you all!

Tory

Saturday, October 29, 2011

South America!

Greetings friends and family!

It was a lesson in patience as I tapped my toe at the EZE Buenos Aires Int´l airport. Four hours to Atlanta, then 10.5 to BA, all the inherent risks of checking your luggage, and mine was nowhere to be seen. But then, I guess *someone´s* bags have to be the last offloaded, and today I was the lucky winner. Weak with relief, I retrieved my pack and suitcase and was officially arrived!

I made my way speedily by taxi into the city and was deposited without ceremony at my humble digs, a budget hotel in the quirky San Telmo area. Late morning, it was still too early to check in, so I stumbled, rumpled, onto the streets, still smelling like airplane-travel and Cheezits (Nikole's snack pack for my flight).

I had an ambitious first day planned, with a 3ish mile walk to a famous part of La Boca, but only made it halfway before my energy flagged, then abruptly gave out, dropping me squarely before a charming Argentine cafe halfway to my destination. I ordered steak and fries (it was the house specialty) and though the steak was only so-so, the fries brought tears to my eyes. I asked for ketchup on the side and received barbeque sauce. This place is unreal! The waiter brought me a glass of red wine with my lunch, and my midday repast was complete.

Sated, I despaired the exhausted trek back to my hotel till I spied a chocolate shop and within found the energy for the last few blocks-- a pair of small butter cookies enrobed in chocolate, sandwiched with caramel cream. I'll be eating lettuce for a week, to work off all the calories. Totally worth it.

Now I'm all checked in and ready for a nap and am sending my love. I can't believe Murray's just 2 day behind me and soon we'll be hiking the Andes! Murray, the arrivals area of EZE is crazy, crazy, but the Taxi EZE stand was easy to find right in the middle of the arrivals hall, and you can pay for the taxi there and they'll take you outside to the driver. Fare to my hotel was outrageous but fast, US43, approx 25 minutes. There´s an HSBC ATM on the left as you exit the arrivals hall, but I'll have plenty of ARS so you don't realy need it. You can pay for the cab at the Taxi EZE stand in USD. Pay the Reciprocity Fee by cc; everyone did it and there was no extra fee.

Love T