Single With Bath

Gaucho and EZE

2011-11-12T03:22:00.001-08:00

Good morning Friends and Family!

I´m all checked in for my evening flight, and my bags are near max-occupancy as I find nooks and crannies into which to stuff my stuff. I always plan to travel light, but never seem to accomplish it!

In an hour, the tourist bus is scheduled to pick me up for a day at a real(ish) estancia, just outside the city. I´m not sure exactly what to expect, but I'm hoping I can learn more about the gaucho. Plus, I´ve heard the bar-be-que is not to be missed!

I´m schedule to go straight to the airport after the excursion, so my next post should be from my humble living room, with my sweet little kitties on my lap!

Love T

Hangin out at the bus station

2011-11-11T19:02:00.000-08:00

Today wasn´t quite the glorious globe trotting day I had imagined... in fact, it was downright dull! Hours of research had assured me the Gaucho Festival in the small town of San Antonio del Agreco was taking place during my time here in Argentina. Further, it was just 2 hours away by public bus, just US$7 or so each way. Fantastic! Adventurous! Wonderful departure from the touristy every-day!

Yep, I should probably stick to the toursty. I arrived at the bus station an hour early for the bus. This is saying something -- the place was massive, and not a little, um, sketchy, at that hour of the morning (note, no town is most beautiful at its bus station). Unfortunately, the friggin 9am bus was already sold out, so I settled for the 11am. Long wait. Then the 11am was delayed an hour. Long wait. Then the bus caught heavier than normal traffic. 30 minute delay.

I arrived in San Antonio after all the morning festivities had ended and siesta had begun. I had yet to eat lunch, and it was already getting late in the afternoon.

I´d met another stranded traveler, an older gentleman from Swiss diplomatic circles, who spoke Spanish and was able to find us a small cafe that was still open even at that hour. Each of us devoured excellent hamburgers. There was no sign of the 10 day "all town" festival, except for some flyers distributed about. Immediately after my hamburger, it was time for me to retreat to the bus station for my return to Buenos Aires.

And yep, no surprise, the return bus was delayed too. This one, 1.5 hours. The sun was nice, though, and I met at the San Antonio bus station a really nice British lady with whom I swapped stories of public transportation woes from around the world (hers were *so* much worse than mine, the poor soul!).

Back in BsAs, I forgot the way to my hotel, and wandered for a long time, needing to use the (ahem) banos quite urgently. Yep. From art gallery princess yesterday to the girl who finally gives in to pay extra for toilet paper. That would be me :-)

My flight out is tomorrow night. I have a day planned at an Estancia not far from the city. I´m a little nervous about making my flight, but determined to make the most of my last precious day in Buenos Aires. Sending my love,

Love T

My list

2011-11-10T15:44:00.000-08:00

Good evening friends and family!

It´s evening in Buenos Aires, and my hotel is a-buzz with artistic folks. They have an art gallery in the ground floor, and tonight´s the opening of their latest exhibit. As a ´resident´, I´m invited (of the unwashed and touristed) and how could I say no? Free wine and bread with cream cheese, and modern art. I can appear to appreciate the art while not understanding a word anyone says to me, no problem. Who says I´m not a woman of this world?? This place rocks!

This morning I was chagrined to have to pay 14 pesos for my simple sliced bread and coffee breakfast so I made the most of it with 5 pieces of toast, 3 cups of coffee, and 2 thingies of marmalade. Leaving my hotel, I think I could have leaped tall buildings. I toted my bags to my hotel for the next 2 nights, the Art Hotel (hence the gallery), ditched them with a very friendly staff, and bolted onto the streets with an ambitious itinerary.

First on my agenda was the Recoletta Cemetary, so beautiful. I circumnavigated the friggin cemetary first (thanks to my exceptionally bad sense of direction) and can attest, the exterior wall is really dull compared to the inside. Anyway, Evita´s grave is simple and had lots of flowers, and the cemetary itself is both historic and poignant. I took snaps.

Next I headed to Once district, lesser traveled by tourists-- advertised in my guidebook as having a blend of Korean, Jewish, and South American cultures. Seriously. I found, it´s kind of like the Meat Packing district of NYC. Every block had a specialty: I passed the chinese food block, the fabrics block, the hair accessories block, the scarves block, and really weirdly enough, the mannequins block, before I finally found the pizza block (a main street). There I lunched.

I had visited only 2 of the planned 8 stops on my itinerary and I was beat. I splurged on a taxi back to my hotel and siestaed for a few hours before resuming my trek of Buenos Aires' most beautiful sites. I found the subway which expedited my travels to the rest of the items on my itinerary, including the Obelisk, a famous opera house turned bookstore Murray recommended, Congresso, and finally to Florida street, where I was overwelmed by the copious quantities of high quality tourist crap to add to my bulging bags.

And now I´m at an art gallery opening in the lobby of my hotel. Excuse me, but I must dash, to get another free glass of exceptional wine and admire art :-)

At this moment, may I say with all humility, I´m the coolest person I know!

Love T

PS What´s all this about flint something in Rock Creek? Someone give me the 411!

Back in the big city

2011-11-09T15:31:00.001-08:00

Hey Friends and Family!

I´m back in the big city, where it all began. Though my heart aches for the stillness of the wilderness, the city air restores my bones. The streets are awash with young and old competing with the frantic traffic to wind their way home. My hotel is more an apartment, complete with kitchen, in the Recoletta district. For the night, I will sleep like a real Porteño!

I supplied myself from the local Super Mercado for a quiet dinner in. I´m still craving vegetables like you can´t imagine, but I think I will never tire of Argentinean wine. The local people are so kind, a nice man holding my place in the long line so I could get the veggies properly marked. His generosity was poorly rewarded, though, as I held up the line unable to provide the 20 cents in change the lady needed to round up to the nearest peso, and we had to wait for someone to bring her pennies. Sigh. Friggin tourists! :-)

My flight from El Calafate was a bit of an ordeal. I showed up at the airport early and was bumped onto an earlier flight, due to the extensive delays of my scheduled departure. The new schedule was less direct, transporting me first into the deep south to Ushisia, the southernmost city in the world. Though it added 3 hours to the commute, I was delighted to see the it, if only for a short time. The buildings are pastel colored, just like it shows in my guidebook!

Tomorrow I have a long list of places that I simply must see (Murray´s given me the tips on the ones absolutely not to be missed), so I bid you a good night!

Love Tory

Off to BsAs!

2011-11-09T03:30:00.001-08:00

Today I´m off to Buenos Aires! I´ll have a busy morning, wrestling my accumulated belongings into my long suffering luggage, and trying not to undo the folds of beautiful clean laundry. My flight is already delayed a bit, scheduled to depart at 213pm.

El Calafate has been beyond my expectations, but I´m excited to be back in the press of the city of Tango. My hotel in Buenos Aires is not far from the famous cemetary, which comes highly recommended by Murray :-) I will try to post when I´m safely arrived (in the city, not the cemetary, natch).

Love T

Puerto Marina Glacier & etc

2011-11-08T15:05:00.000-08:00

Good evening Friends and Family!

I awoke early for my morning transport to the glacier, and used the extra time to indulge in El Calafate´s excellent caffe con latte, plus assorted and sundry breads and sweets -- carbohydrates designed to fuel a day trekking (sheesh, I could have climbed a mountain on those calories)!

On the full-to-bursting tourist bus I met two New Yorker attorneys, young women, sharing the excursion. We each strapped on our crampons, snapping cheezy pics the whole time, and our experienced guide leaped upon the glacier, with the lot of us in tow. It was a riot! The staff carefully prepped us in the proper use of equipment on the ice, advice largely ignored (or, frankly, completely misunderstood) by the quartet of Korean tourists, bent on securing photos of every minute. The New Yorkers and I chuckled quietly, indulgently at the attempts of our experienced Argentenian staff at reigning in the antics of the foursome, who skittered and slid across the glacier as if wearing ice skates instead of spikes, while they were recording every moment. At the end of our glacier trek, we were treated to a taste of whiskey on the rocks, aged (averaged) 200 years -- that is, 1 year for the whiskey, 400 years for the `rocks` which our guide harvested with an ice axe from the top of a nearby pinnacle. I don´t generally like whiskey alcohol, but this bit was absolutely delicious, and a fitting end to the wonderful day.

An extra souvineer, I am now evidenced with a bit of the glacier, my face now rosy red with the effect of the sunshine off the ice, and the strong wind. Shoudda worn sunscreen. Sigh.

This evening, my last in El Calafate, I began my painful goodbyes. I visited the receptionist from my hotel, learning German and preparing for an oral exam, whom I helped (not particularly helpful) with accent and vocab. I visited the baker with whom Murray and I connected, in appreciation of the precision of his crossiant and flavor of his scones. He pressed upon me the Argentenian kiss on both cheeks, four of my favorite scones gratis, and an offer for the disco tonight (I politely declined the last :-) ). Tomorrow I fly back to BsAs, heartbroken at leaving this most special of places, but elated to return to the city where my adventure began.

Sending you my love,

Tory

Mountain Town and Adventures to Come!

2011-11-07T14:13:00.001-08:00

Good afternoon Friends and Family!

This morning I nearly sprinted to the laundry, catching them just as they opened their doors for the day. The lady was so polite, barely flinching as I pulled out layer upon layer of filthy tees and jeans, and socks still shedding bits of the wilderness on her clean floor. This afternoon I returned to two huge bags of the freshest and cleanest and whitest tee shirts, pressed blue jeans, and my socks, my glorious socks, restored to their original colors from the uniform dusty dirt color they´d acquired over the past week. I was so happy I nearly cried. It cost $12. Priceless.

El Calafate has been a wonderful spot to linger. The weather is unmatched -- probably around 75 degrees, clear skies, and a light cooling wind off the glaciers. Inviting restaurants and cafes abound -- stay too long here at the risk of your waistline. I love the mountaineering shops with trekking gear, fancy ropes and tents- they have everything you could desire to rough it in the highest style! But it is all at a price-- this place is dang expensive! The tourist shops have crazy tee shirts, sheep shaped trinkets by local artists, leather goods, jams and wine made from the El Calafate berry, etc, etc, etc. Without blowing the budget, the tourist in me still found way to get a few treasures here and there (watch for them in your Christmas stockings)!

Also, after serious debate, I decided on an excursion for tomorrow´s industry. I´ve been dreaming about it since I heard it was possible, so I´m taking the leap and am joining a group to go trekking on the Puerto Merrino glacier itself. They supply the crampons, included in the price :-) I´ll take tons of pics.

A minor hitch in my plans, I read my email to discover there was a building collapse this morning in Buenos Aires. My hotel was closeby and is now closed indefinitely until they can bring down the rest of the collapsed building and clear the debris. Zipes. I´m going online now to find a new place. I don´t like to think about the timing of it, just a few days before my arrival.... but a miss is as good as a mile :-)

I heard from Murray. He´s fallen in love with Buenos Aires too, and is giving me inside scoop on where he loved and where to skip, so I can maximize my time upon my return on Wednesday. Insider info!!

Thanks for the notes-- I´m thinking of you all, and dragging you along every step of my way. And I am sending my love!

Love T

Sunshine in Patagonia

2011-11-06T11:35:00.001-08:00

Greeting friends and family!

I was *so* sad to wave goodbye to Murray this morning, as he settled his overstuffed pack in the taxi, airport bound for Buenos Aires. His pack is heavy due to his generosity of spirit -- he´s heavy an extra pair of hiking boots (mine) to free room in his sweet sister´s luggage for tourist souviners she plans to acquire in the coming week :-)

I remain in El Calafate for 2 more days, before returning to Buenos Aires myself, and though a little blue with missing Murray, I am reveling in hot running water, abundant restaurants (more chocolate shops than you can count), and the deliciousness of wearing tennies instead of those hulking hiking boots which were a constant companion for the past 5 days. I found a laundry in this small town, miracle of miracles, and hope to have the unthinkable -- clean socks -- by this time tomorrow.

This afternoon I also said goodbye to two exceptional women who became friends of ours on the trek, Laura and Sarah, of Boisie and Fairbanks. We four met on the tourist shuttle to the park at the beginning of the week, and during the trek our paths crossed often along the way, as they also followed the W course East to West. Fellow adventurers, we swapped stories of our funny (mis)adventures, and compared bruises, blisters, and the strategies employed to not blow off the trail. This afternoon, they helped keep me company after Murray had departed, over local draft beers, we liquid lunched, and crafted list of advice to give Lonely Planet for their next update to the Trekking in Patagonia guidebook!

Now that it´s just me left in El Calafate, I´ve decided on a quiet, well earned, evening in. I stocked up on dinner supplies at the local supermarket, pulled out my iPod and Kindle, scoped out the TV remote, and confirmed the readiness of my bath soap (which doubles as bubble bath). After a most exceptional week, a most exceptional evening planned. More ambitious adventures can wait for the morning :-)

Sending you all my love!

Love T

The Grandest of Adventures!

2011-11-05T20:34:00.000-07:00

Greetngs Friends and Family!

It´s been a long time since I´ve been able to post to the blog to tell you Murray and I are safe and sound. But we are, and we are returned from our grand adventure!

With minutes to spare from Murray´s taxi dropping him at my hotel door, we sprinted to a cafe then to the domestic airport for El Calafate, the small mountain town north of our destination, Torres del Paine. Plane to bus, we were finally settled in our humble hostel for the next few hours before our 530 am transport to the park.

Poor Murray had slept none on the plane here, little on the flight to El Calafate, but we were both satisfied with a 3 course pizza dinner in town, sustaining us till midnight sorting our backpacks and assorted sundries, in preparation for the trek.

At noon, we arrived in the Torres del Paine, having crossed to the Chilean border with scraps of paper attached to our passports we were at pains not to lose.

Murray helped me off the bus with my pack, and I held his aloft as he settled his on his shoulders. And thus we were off on our trek!

We saw the most spectacular mountain ranges, trekking humbly in their midst, under cover of a bit of rain, a bit of snow, brilliant sunshine, and strong winds that swept the breath from our noses, and the threw us onto the rocks. We crossed rivers on bridges meant for one person at a time (um, does that include the pack?!), crossed streams leaping rock to rock, traversed plains of brush, fields of boulders, climbed small walls of granite to achieve steeper hills on the top. We were stretched to our breaking point, not to mention tripped ankles, sore toes, bruised shoulders and backs. We saw wildlife, birds of all sorts, emu, llama type creatures, fox. All told, I think we traveled 56 miles during our 5 days trekking. Every evening we arrived at our destination, I swore I was done, for I hadn´t another step in me. And each morning we re-tied our laces for another 20 kilometers or so.

Then suddenly, it was ended, and we had arrived at our destination. Bittersweet, we celebrated our endurance, our determination, simultaneously mourning it was ended. But then again, boy oh boy did we need a shower!!

We´ll fill you in on more of the details later, like the time Murray tripped on the pathway and landed upside down turtle-style limbs akimbo, flailing, while I watched on, helpless with laughter. Or the toenail on my right big toe which, injured by repeatedly stubbing my toe descending from the 3rd day´s ascent, formed a blister which separated my toenail from the nail bed -- we performed minor surgery by headlamp that night on my offended toe, trimming the nail and excising the blister. It was *so* gross!

Murray flies out tomorrow and I am staying in El Calafate to relax a bit, instead of heading straight to El Chalten (another trekking town north of here). We will post more later but I am overdue for my first night in a real bed :-)

Sending you hugs and kisses,

Love T

Murray is here!

2011-10-31T07:26:00.000-07:00

Murray arrived safe and sound and looking fresh as a daisy! We´re off to El Calafate!

Love T

Sunshine and Street Fairs

2011-10-30T11:09:00.000-07:00

Greetings Friends and Family!

Yesterday after posting, I retired to my themed boudoir -- every room is different, and mine features a famous Argentine crooner of Tango fame. A little cheezy, it's absolutely perfect, and wonderfully cozy.

I crashed hard for a few hours, but woke in time for a late dinner (though still early by Argentine standards). I slipped on some pretty sandals and wandered out in search of my evening meal. My footsteps led me back to the familiar square I'd visited earlier in the day. And using the old tourist wisdom of eating where the locals eat, I passed many fancy, dimly lit steak houses with English translated menus on their windows, until I found a big pizzaria, filled to bursting with chatter and laughter, and doing a brisk takeout business. My waiter was patient as I stumbled through the menu (thank Heaven pizza and mozzarella are the same in all languages). The pizza was fab! Stuffed, I retreated back to my Tango Singer digs, my compliments to the chef still ringing in my ears.

This morning, I slept wonderfully late but still hit the streets as the city was waking up. A simple breakfast of coffee and croissant took me to the La Boca district I'd failed to reach yesterday. It was choc-a-bloc with tourists like me; Though I didn't encounter any Americans, there were tons of Brits. We all reveled in the sunshine, and as the afternoon went on, it grew positively warm! Tons of pics later, I returned via the San Telmo Street Market which is easily a mile long, both sides of the street lined with artists, leather goods, trinkets, street performers, empanadas, tango dancers, and music, music everywhere. I lunched cheaply on a slice of specialty pizza -- flakey pastry dough with tomatoes, cheese, ham, and eggs, for only 7ARS (less than US$2) and invested my savings in tourist trinkets at the Market. A wonderful day.

I'm so excited for tomorrow and Murray's arrival which signals the beginning of our Grand Trek. I will set up my cell phone this afternoon (since I forgot all about it yesterday).

Love you all!

Tory

South America!

2011-10-29T10:11:00.001-07:00

Greetings friends and family!

It was a lesson in patience as I tapped my toe at the EZE Buenos Aires Int´l airport. Four hours to Atlanta, then 10.5 to BA, all the inherent risks of checking your luggage, and mine was nowhere to be seen. But then, I guess *someone´s* bags have to be the last offloaded, and today I was the lucky winner. Weak with relief, I retrieved my pack and suitcase and was officially arrived!

I made my way speedily by taxi into the city and was deposited without ceremony at my humble digs, a budget hotel in the quirky San Telmo area. Late morning, it was still too early to check in, so I stumbled, rumpled, onto the streets, still smelling like airplane-travel and Cheezits (Nikole's snack pack for my flight).

I had an ambitious first day planned, with a 3ish mile walk to a famous part of La Boca, but only made it halfway before my energy flagged, then abruptly gave out, dropping me squarely before a charming Argentine cafe halfway to my destination. I ordered steak and fries (it was the house specialty) and though the steak was only so-so, the fries brought tears to my eyes. I asked for ketchup on the side and received barbeque sauce. This place is unreal! The waiter brought me a glass of red wine with my lunch, and my midday repast was complete.

Sated, I despaired the exhausted trek back to my hotel till I spied a chocolate shop and within found the energy for the last few blocks-- a pair of small butter cookies enrobed in chocolate, sandwiched with caramel cream. I'll be eating lettuce for a week, to work off all the calories. Totally worth it.

Now I'm all checked in and ready for a nap and am sending my love. I can't believe Murray's just 2 day behind me and soon we'll be hiking the Andes! Murray, the arrivals area of EZE is crazy, crazy, but the Taxi EZE stand was easy to find right in the middle of the arrivals hall, and you can pay for the taxi there and they'll take you outside to the driver. Fare to my hotel was outrageous but fast, US43, approx 25 minutes. There´s an HSBC ATM on the left as you exit the arrivals hall, but I'll have plenty of ARS so you don't realy need it. You can pay for the cab at the Taxi EZE stand in USD. Pay the Reciprocity Fee by cc; everyone did it and there was no extra fee.

Love T

Home again, .home again

2011-04-10T19:41:00.000-07:00

My most special friends and family,

The faces of my most precious Gobi and the Turk welcomed me with high volume kitty miaos as I disgorged the accumulated week's worth of laundry and Costa Rica treasures. Robert and I made our exceptionally early morning connections in San Jose with no problem, and we arrived in Seattle after uneventful flights, despite a small crisis at the airport in Denver when the airline mysteriously misplaced then found Robert's souvineer-stuffed luggage.

I'll treasure the days and adventures we had in Costa Rica -- the generous spirit of the hotel reception staffs, our philosophical taxi drivers, and the sound of the crashing waves and hooting monkeys. But best of all is arriving back home safe and sound, to my favorite pillow and the ordinary household chores that are now so preciously familiar. Thank you all for following our adventures and sharing the moments with us. Pura Vida!

I'll post pics when we get them downloaded :-)

Love T

Our fondest adios!

2011-04-09T17:16:00.000-07:00

Hola Everyone!

Today Robert and I rose early to say goodbye to La Fortuna and catch our transport back into San Jose. The bird that every morning pecked at our window (a misguided woodpecker, perhaps? We kinda wondered) pecked again to remind us to pack up all the assorted souvineers and touristy bits, along with the last little drips and drabs left of our sunscreen, toothpaste, and shampoo, plus worn out bikinis and flip flops. It's time to head home.

San Jose seemed chaotic and noisy compared to the racous calls of the toucan, the hooting monkeys, the roar of the ocean, and the buzzing of birds and insects flying about. But the Hotel Presidente has been treating us well, as there is an olympic sized bathtub tailor-made for us, ideally suited to remove the layers of dirt and sand accumulated by a week on the road.

Our flight departs at 6:30 am tomorrow, and I am already longing to return to this very special place. But I am so very excited to see familiar faces again, to kiss, kiss Gobi and the Turk, and to distribute the Costa Rican tourist goodies we have crammed into our suitcases.

Thank you, thank you to Nikole and to Murray for caring for my sweet, precious boys while their momma was away. It is a tremendous thing you do for me, and I truly appreciate it, more than I can say! I'll post when I'm home safe and sound (and when the boys let me on to the internet).

Love T

Plentitude!

2011-04-08T17:20:00.000-07:00

Buenos Tardes, family and friends!

Breakfast this morning was interrupted by our driver (gotta love having a driver!) early arrival to take us to our ATVs for a tour of the Arenal waterfall. Bumpy roads, traffic (in the form of cars, SUVs, horses, cows, et al) is old hat for us, and we´re pros on the ATV. The jungle around the falls was green, green, and we saw our first toucans. And our guide took us to the Arenal river where he told us about the big volcano eruption in the late 60´s. We compared notes with the St Helens erruption in 1980, and had a really fun time.

But the big adventure of the day belonged to us as we tried the ziplines through the jungle canopy. Stapped in and safety lined, we zipped and zoomed from treetop to tree top between high platforms hundreds of feet off the ground. It simply moved too fast for us to be afraid of the heights or the speed-- but only just. A fun Flemish group, plus some Spaniards shared the experience with us. Halfway through the platforms, we paused for the optional Tarzan swing. All the women in the group raised their hands, among them, me!! Nearly all the guys volunteered to take pictures. I was fourth up. Strapped in, they opened the gate before me and I dropped a good 20 feet before I swung out wide and far, screaming bloody murder the whole entire way. Everyone was laughing at my screeching, including me, and the whole thing was caught on video. Priceless.

Our taxi driver to this evening´s internet cafe plus dinner (internet was down at the hotel, because internet goes down when it rains....) was a driver by trade but a philosopher at heart. He stopped the cab to give us advice-- don´t use bad words, be honest at all times, and seek out plentitude in all that you do. We thought it was a magnificent thought for our last night in Arenal :-)

Love T

The day in La Fortuna

2011-04-07T18:01:00.000-07:00

Hola family and friends!

This morning, Robert and I awoke to a cacophony --the sound of chirping insects, calling birds, hooting monkeys, and a low rumble which grew louder and louder! Vaguely uneasy, I grew positively alarmed at the approaching roar, until Robert identified the sound as a huge rain squall, watering the verdant grounds of our humble resort and filling the air with the sounds of a jungle storm.

Energized by the Costa Rican coffee and a buffet breakfast, we worked off our pineapples and yogurt hiking the grounds, some 150 or so acres of green. At the edge of a ravine, I ventured too close, fell through the soft moss and scraped my leg on a tree root. Sigh. Fortunately, Robert had his medical kit and we got me patched up with antiseptic to spare.

This afternoon, we ventured into La Fortuna town for lunch at a local soda, which grew popular with the tourist crowd by the passing minute (we attributed it all to our presence), then I wandered off by myself to visit the local versions of grocery stores and Quicky-Mart (one of my favorite activities) to acquire local versions of cookies, chocolates, and -- best of all -- bottled salsa!

I foolishly hiked all the way back through town to the property of our hotel -- probably no further than 2 miles or so, but in the hot and humid, I was a wilted flower upon arrival, finding the relaxed and suntanned Robert snoozing by the pool. Some vacation, eh??

Tomorrow´s our adventure day: we´re booked at odark early for an ATV tour of the jungle and waterfall (includes lunch), followed by the long awaited ziplines.

We saw the monkeys!!

Love T

Does it really take 4 mini-vans to get to Arenal?

2011-04-06T15:50:00.000-07:00

Hola Family and Friends!!

I´m at an internet cafe immediately across the main road in La Fortuna from a wonderful laundramat, which is right now tumbling our pitifully dirty tees and shorts a wonderful clean. This morning, Robert and I were up with the sun, discovering an exceptionally large insect the shape of a leaf closely guarding our front door, and keeping the lizards at bay. Skirting the bug (Robert, with much more dignity than I), we hauled our luggage out for our 6:30 departure to the Arenal Volcano.

Our taxi took us down the steep dusty road to the waiting mini-van, which took us over potholes and dirt roads to the next waiting mini-van, more rough roads and dust, then to the Puntarenas ferry. After the hour and a half ferry crossing we picked up our third mini-van, but then changed just half an hour later to the final van which took us the last 3 hours stretch into the mountains. Our driver entertained himself on this final stretch, maintaining a constant soliloquy of loud, fluent Spanish. Not sure who was listening, but we sure were greatful when he stopped the van at an unnammed soda (cafe) along the way and let us out to use the bathroom and grab something to eat.

Finally, finally, by 2pm we were greatfully checked into a charming hotel Robert found online, with individual cabins and a spectacular view of the volcano. It looms over the town of La Fortuna and promises adventures for the days to come! But most importantly, next time I post, I´ll be wearing clean clothes :-)

I am thinking of you and sending you all my love!

Love T

PS I miss the ocean terribly!
PPS We will try to find a place to burn photos and post. The only two places we´ve found so far, their equipment was not working :-(

The matchess Mal Pais

2011-04-05T14:43:00.001-07:00

Good afternoon everyone!

This morning Robert and I admired the iguanas in the trees off our deck as they leaped from limb to limb catching whatever bugs they could for breakfast. We were meanwhile enjoying our own repast -- Costa Rican coffee (absolutely delicious), toast and fruit. Thus fortified, we were off like a herd of turtles (everyone moves a little slowly here) aboard our ATV to visit the matchess town of Mal Pais.

This is one of the most famous surf areas in Costa Rica, and Robert and I were instantly charmed. The downtown area of town (as it were) consisted of a few huts where fishermen were bringing in their local catch. They piled the guts and other undesirable bits into large buckets they poured onto the rocks for the wheeling birds of exotic lineage and enormous wingspan. The surf itself was breathtaking, though the surfers were few -- mostly just some kids playing around on boogie boards -- so we wandered the beach by ourselves, and snapped cheezy pics. We dipped our toes in the tidepools, and admired the wildlife around us.

We lunched at a local soda (cafe) and spent siesta time snoozing in the wonderful heat and refreshing ocean breezes. I explored a bit more on the ATV this afternoon, going north along the coast until the dusty dirt road finally gave out and there was nothing left but ocean expanse in front of me. A moment to always remember :-)

Tomorrow we are off at an unreasonably early hour for our transport (van-ferry-van) to the Arenal Volcano area. We are really excited to see the monkeys!

Love T

Hot, hot,hot!

2011-04-04T17:49:00.000-07:00

Good evening family!

This morning, at the resort tent, Robert and I were accompanied by the world's most charming restaurant cat. Probably just 12 months old or so, this kitty Marty stole the hearts of all the Ylang Ylang guests, including Robert's and mine. We also befriended a pair of small green lizards we named Walter and Mondale. Then this morning Marty ate Mondale (or one of his cousins). It happens :-)

Now Robert and I call the Chill House our home. The air is filled with the sound of cicadas and exotic bird calls we can't identify. We rented a four wheeler ATV for the next few days. It is so much fun to navigate these dusty roads aboard!

Love T

Adventures at sea!

2011-04-03T15:02:00.000-07:00

Hola Friends and Family!

Robert and I just got back from our sunny mini excurision to Tortula Island. Scorning activity of all kinds, we spent the entire day on the beach, soaking in the sunshine. When the sun got too hot, I walked about 25 feet to the waves and plunged myself into the surf. Robert was a little more sensible and stayed under a beach umbrella. Together, we relaxed the afternoon away! No worries, though -- plenty of sunscreen for us both :-)

Tonight we are moving in to new digs for a stay at a resort a few minutes' walk up the beach from Montezuma. We've reserved an ocean-facing tent for the night. Very exciting! Robert's got a mosquito net all ready to string up, should we require....

Our plans for tomorrow originally called for us to head inland at o'dark early to the Monteverde Cloud Forest.... But the sun and the water are so seductive, we've decided abandon our original plans and instead to linger in this area for just a short time longer. We just made a reservation at a small resort called the Canaima Chill House in the town of Santa Teresa / Mal Pais, which is just a few kilometers up the beach from Montezuma.

Maybe we'll finally have time to learn to surf :-)

Sending all my love!

Love T

Adventures on land

2011-04-02T15:58:00.000-07:00

Buenos Tardes, my friends and family!

I´m contentedly exhausted, typing here from the teeny internet cafe on the ´main street´, Montezuma. It´s easy to see how people wash up on these shores and never seem to leave. The air is so sticky and hot, anything faster than a sultry walk is too rapid, and any industry too far removed from the beach is simply ignored and forgotten.

But, being ambitious tourists, this morning Robert and I were up at o'dark early, beating the heat and the crowds, to hike to the waterfalls above town. Advertised as a 15 minute wander, we spent an hour scrambling over boulders, wading in the river, and picking our way over slippery moss and under hanging vines, before we finally made it to the falls. We saw plenty of wildlife: iguanas, lizards of all sorts, spiders and other creepy-crawlies, plus fish, birds, and weird looking squirrels. We snapped tons of pics.

In need of refreshment from our walk, we indulged in a repast of fresh coconut milk served roadside by a guy with a machetti: he choped off the top of the coconut, inserted a straw and handed it over -- surprisingly yummy! We chucked the coconut into the bushes when done (it´s compostable) and wandered into town to rent an SUV, hoping to make it to the famous Mal Pais beach on the other side of the penninsula, for a lunch on the beach and folick in the waves. Unfortunately, our goal was elusive as we kept getting delightfully lost along rutted dirt trails and pathways through the trees and hills. Finally unwinding our way back to Montezuma in defeat, we devoured a delicious lunch I can´t even remember and our hotel welcomed us back dusty, dirty, sweaty, windswept, bumped and bruised, and completely, completely spent. Wonderful.

For tomorrow´s industry, we are booked on a boat tour to the nearby Tortuga Island. Supposedly you can rent sea kayaks there for just $10, or go snorkling, fishing, all kinds of things. And you can even just sit in a hammock and let the gentle breeze rock it back and forth. It´s going to be tough deciding which :-)

Love T

From Montezuma, with love

2011-04-01T14:30:00.001-07:00

Ola friends and family!

Robert and I are contentedly established in a lovely room on the beach with AC and a long veranda in the tiny surf town of Montezuma. We had a somewhat harrowing bus ride from San Jose yesterday (for just $2 it took the ´old highway`), arriving Jaco in the heat of the afternoon. I was pretty much wilted, but we had just enough energy (after ´dos cervesas, por favor´) to book tickets on this morning´s boat to Montezuma, across the bay.

Dinner in Jaco was a seafood affair, though we were both a bit on edge -- Jaco has a decidedly seedy atmosphere that pervades the town. Our hotel, Clarita´s Beach Bar, was not quite nice as it appeared on the internet.... plus, it kind of smelled. But the beach itself was exquisite, and I frolicked in the waves while Robert supervised from shore.

But this morning, we were happy enough to quit Jaco´s shores, and begin our trek to Montezuma. Luggage in tow, we waded out to the jet boat and climbed aboard. Its open deck seated around 15 tourists or so. Then with fanfare and splashing waves, and a Rastifarian at the helm, we were fast, fast screaming across the water. Spray splashed us constantly, and the wind roared in our ears, and the two of us were grinning like idiots. The commute slowed several times as we paused to admire schools of dolphins playing in the waves. We snapped plenty of pics :-)

Montezuma is just what the doctor ordered after the chaos of San Jose and the grimy Jaco. The whole town consists of a beach, and a T intersection with a few cute restaurants, surf shops, and places to rent mopeds and ATVs. And that´s it. In other words, it´s absolute heaven. We´re in Montezuma for the next few days, and there´s a hammock with my name on it, so I bid you adieu for tonight!

Love T

Get Loco in Jaco!

2011-03-31T07:51:00.000-07:00

Good morning friends and family!

What a vibrant and gritty and authentic city San Jose is! Not too many tourists, though Robert and I are far from alone, as the streets are crowded at all hours with locals and workers all rushing about. The traffic is pure chaos, but pedestrians abound, nimbly dodging transports of all sizes from overloaded mopeds to dinosaur-scaled buses, all spewing diesel clouds. Something about this place gives me the energy to leap buildings!

Yesterday noon, the rested Robert and I retraced the steps of my morning excursion, then wandered further to the Central Market -- a full city block affair of vendors and eateries, like a turkish souk or the Pike Market. We ´treated´ ourselves to an authentic lunch in the belly of the market. Appetizer was some kind of potato tortilla, fried. The entree a form of meat-ish patty on cornmeal tortilla taco-like. Dry of seasoning or toppings, both were, umm, interesting. But (rap wood) no tummy difficulties to report and it was really fun to use Roberts high school Spanish.

We ventured further to the sketchier part of town where we procurred bus tickets for the morning departure to Jaco, then scooted out quickly, safe and sound, belongings intact, back to our pension.

Jetlagged Robert spent much of the rest of the afternoon napping away the heat and humidity, while I wandered the streets near our pension, burning off excess energy buying three sarangs for the beach, and some tourist trinkets.

This morning we are off to Jaco, on the Pacific Coast, where the adventure continues. I can´t wait to plunge my toes into the ocean!

Love T

Pura Vida from San Jose!

2011-03-30T07:18:00.000-07:00

Ola mi amigos!

Greetings from San Jose, Costa Rica! Robert and I flew out yesterday afternoon. His luggage weighed twice mine -- bikinis just don´t take up much space-- and we were on the red eye out of Denver at midnight. Before we knew it, we had landed, cleared customs and at 530 a.m. were launched onto the streets of San Jose.

The city was already awake and lively, which is more than I can say for the two of us, unwashed and rumpled tourists that we are. Our wonderful pension, Casa 69, owned by a German man from Saarbrucken, checked us in immediately. I jumped headfirst into the shower; Robert barely removed his shoes before crashing out on the bed. I left him to sleep while indulging in a perfect eggwhite omelette, which was not easy to order....I had to do some fancy explaining, and I bet they´re still talking about it. Sigh. After that, I left Robert to his repose and hit the streets of the city.

Our hotel is a bit out of the city center, (but conveniently located to the Nicaraguan embassy so it´s easy to find). I´ve put some tracks on my tennies enjoying the sights and sounds and smells. I found an ATM to withdraw the local currency but then realized I had forgotten the exchange rate and was uncertain whether I was withdrawing $10 or $1000. Zipes. Fortunately for me, I guessed correctly, and have $10 to splurge on whatever tourist fancies grip me (and there are many, many).

Sending you my love!

Love T

Tripping and Falling

2010-10-03T20:59:00.000-07:00

Hey family and friends,

I have no "global keyboard" excuse for bad typing, as I am home, safe and sound, typing from my own laptop. Were I to blame any typos on anyone it would be on my dearsweet boys, Gobi and the Turk, whose affection is unmatched -- particularly when I am trying to concentrate on something else!

I am home safe and sound. The blue nail polish on my fingertips is chipped, I have work in the morning, and I am weary, weary from 20+ hours of flights / layovers / flights. My in my dreams I will be back on Kos, back on Odyssey and riding the waves, back on the spirited Diego, scattering the sheep, or rounding the passageways and stairs of my Turkish resort, and basking in the sun off the Camel beach, even stoic, under the attention of my Turkish masseuse.

I am counting the days till I can return!

Love T

Kalispera!

2010-10-02T09:40:00.000-07:00

Kalispera and Good Evening Friends and Family!

This is likely my last post from this trip -- tomorrow I depart for Kos Airport at o-dark-early. It felt so wonderful, so ordinary setting foot back on Kos. I've gotten to know the neighborhoods and streets a little (though I still get lost quite regularly). I spent my last day of vacation wandering the old town and tipping my nose into my favorite tourist shops, and lunching on a divine Greek salad and tadziki. The proprietor, a wizened old man with white hair and a belly laugh (though quite trim) waved over his chef (a Polish woman, living in Greece 20+ years) to spill her secrets on how to properly prepare tadziki.

She listed the ingredients -- the same as I know. But, she said, the secret: the secret is to buy all the ingredients on Kos. It doesn't taste the same anywhere else :-)

I'm off to a big dinner so I can gear up for my long journey tomorrow so I bid you good night. I'll post when I'm back home safe and sound, and cuddling my sweet Gobi and Turk. Look for tons of Greek and Turkish tourist crap in your Christmas stockings!

Love Tory

Dull and Thrıllıng

2010-10-01T11:13:00.000-07:00

Hello frıends and famıly!

Yesterday was a pretty dull day (blog wıse) featurıng me hangıng out at the beach across from my new dıgs at the Tropıcana. But I had just enough energy after a day of loungıng about ın the sand to book a day voyage ın the harbor for the mornıng:

Thıs mornıngs journey was aboard the (unımagınatıvely named) vessel Saılor. No fewer than fıve coastal sıtes on the ıtınerary blended together ın hot sun, cool wınd, and perıodıc dıps ın the Aegean sea. A brıef stop on Camel Island gave those of us gathered (tourısts, all) the opportunıty to rıde a camel for 5 euros. I happıly paıd up and rode, all bumps and bruıses from the spırıted Pedro revısıted. Fortunately for me and wee body, the boy was well behaved -- and the rıde very brıef.

Restored safely to dry land (vıa precarıous motorboat from the saılıng shıp ın harbor to the beach, pıloted by a boy I would gess no older than 18) I raced back to my Tropıcana for my rıde to the Turkısh hammam. Thıs was bılled as a ,genuıne, experıence, not to be mıssed. Yep, pretty genuıne.

I was soaped, scraped, steamed, heated, and massaged, wıthın an ınch of my lıfe. My host, takıng a personal ınterest ın the ,genuıne-ness, of my experıence, joıned me ın the humıd sauna... he smelled of mıd-afternoon-Turkısh-man. Afterward, I felt hıs ınterest ın the character of my exfolıatıon to be borderlıne too-frıendly... untıl he paused mıd-scrub to show me HOW MUCH dırty skın he was harvestıng from my travel weary skın (bad form, I thought). For hıs fınal treatment, I lay supıne on a gıant marble platform -- pıpıng hot -- whıle he bathed me ın bubbles.

Whatever.

Fortunately the last step, a full body massage, was conducted by a dıfferent gentleman whose ınterest ın me was purely professıonal. He chatted amıcably about hıs frıends ın New York whıle he pulled, bent, shaped and tugged me wıthın an ınch of my lıfe. Too proud to cry uncle, I merely squeeked a few tımes, a fact of whıch I am very proud.

And then, thank goodness, ıt was ended. I retreated to a quıck dınner of pızza and frıes whıle waıtıng on the agency to book my catamaran back to Kos, and scurrıed back to the safety of my Tropıcana. Next post from back ın Greece, where ıts normal :-)

Love you all,

Tory

The nightlife

2010-09-30T02:14:00.000-07:00

Hello Friends and Family!

İt is a bit overcast and muggy today, not ideal for the beach, but pleasant enough for walkıng on the boardwalk whıch suıts me just fıne. Yesterday afternoon, I chatted wıth a nıce Turkısh guy, on staff at the resort and ın charge of the entertaınment staff. After my ınterest ın how the resort worked, he gave me a personal tour behınd the scenes ın the grounds and the kıtchens. Really cool!

At hıs suggestıon I sıgned up for the evenıng entertaınment excursıon, a mıdnıght trıp to the dısco -- perfectly safe wıth hım and hıs staff as guıde and chaperone. There were about 20 of us ın attendance, dressed ın ıdentıcal tee-shırts (whıch hıs staff customızed to our taste wıth scıssors for that Madonna deconstructed look) :-) It was a mıracle I was able to stay up that late, but ıt was a blast to get out onto a dance floor and burn off some of the energy from the quantıes of sweets Ive been eatıng. I was the only Amerıcan, but I hung out wıth a super frıendly couple from England, and other ınterestıng vacatıoners from all over the globe, dancıng to the European beats.

Bedtıme was 3am, so I slept late, late. But İ was very careful to wander down ın tıme to take ın the scrumptuous breakfast buffet.

Now I have checked out of my comfy resort dıgs for a slıghtly more down-scale place a bıt further from Bodrum center but stıll on the beach. It got excellent revıews onlıne.... Its called the Tropıcana. Should be quıte an adventure :-)

Mıssıng you all and wıshıng you were here!

Love T

The sıghts and the smells

2010-09-29T03:14:00.001-07:00

Hello frıends and famıly!

After yesterdays retaıl extravaganza, I hussled back to my new dıgs, a resort property rıght on the sea. The room prıce ıs quıte reasonable (less than half that of Kos) and ıncludes hammam, ındoor and outdoor swımmıng pools, fıtness room and, the best yet, half board. The buıldıngs span a 10 storys, but terraced alogn the hıll from the beach, so there are lots of wındıng passageways and staırs to get from one area to the next. The beach ıs level 1, receptıon level 10, dınner level 3. My room ıs on level 7 (rıght next to the fıtness room... fıgures). I spent a magıcal afternoon loungıng about on the beach ın front of the resort, snappıng cheezy pıcs and splashıng around ın the temperate water. Large wooden saılıng shıps pass to and fro ın the channel, and a cute water taxı ferrıes folks constantly between Bodrum center and the resport.

When I grew weary of the sun and relaxatıon, I hoofed ıt up the staırs to dıscover my room had a tearfully strong odor, ınstantly recognızable. Garlıc. Garlıc was everywhere! About to tromp up the staırs for a stern word wıth the management, I paused ın reflectıon, then checked my backpack. Sure enough, that last nıght of excesses ın Kos, I had bought a small bag of spıces of tadzıkı flavorıng. The prımary ıngredıent, ıt turns out, ıs very, very strong garlıc. Lots and lots of garlıc. Neglected ın my bag ın the hot hotel room, the garlıc smell had escaped the confınes of my backpack and scented everythıng I owned. In utter dısmay I wrapped the offendıng packet ın 3 layers of plastıc bags and tossed ıt ın the bın. Stıll garlıc. So I opened the balcony door wıde open, and shared my garlıc wıth the neıghbors, dressed for dınner (sprıtz of perfume) and went to dınner.

What a spread! Though I started wıth a small plate of healthy small portıons, I gave ın to ındulgence wıth the strong flavors of fresh beets, olıves, and cheeses, plus kebab slıces wıth pıta, wonderful Turkısh pızza, consume wıth peas and carrots. The dessert offerıngs were as numerous as the entrees, and I sampled three varıetıes of baklava, chocolate puddıng, and nests of fılo.

I lugged my bıg round belly up the staırs, and though I fully ıntended to attend the bellydancıng demonstratıon below, ınstead I fell fast asleep, I bıg smıle on my face :-)

Sendıng you my love,

Love Tory

Greetings from Bodrum!

2010-09-28T03:37:00.000-07:00

Hey frıends and famıly!

Pardon my typıng -- the Turkısh keyboard ıs quırky. İ am haılıng from Bodrum, a great seasıde town awash wıth tourısts and maybe one or two locals to show us around :-)

Last nıght ın Kos, I stayed up way too late, seduced by the nıght aır and the musıcal offerıngs of a duo of Canadıan guıtarısts (not very good -- no offense to Canada-- but the lıvely crowd of Germans made ıt a real occasıon).

I awoke sore, bruısed, and a lıttle hung over, and rousted myself just ın tıme for my ferry to Bodrum. My fırst stop -- after droppıng my bags at the expansıve resort that ıs my new dıgs-- was Bodrum,s Grand Bazaar, a Tuesday event of sıgnıfıcant popularıty wıth the shoppıng-ınclıned masses. Bargaınıng ıs a must, and multıple currences can be ınvolved (turkısh lıre, euro, pounds) so those good at doıng math ın theır heads generally do better than those of us stıll tryıng to cheat off notes on our hands, the scrıbbled phoenıtcs for Turkısh "İs that the best prıce you can do?" Sıgh. Look ın your Chrıstmas stockıngs for the fruıts of my labor.

I lunched on yummy Turkısh fast-food, donor kebab (thın seasoned slıces of meat wıth pıta) and ın the heat of the day, wıth my new knockoff True Relıgıon blue jeans ın hand, I am ready for a nap.

Sendıng you my love!

Love Tory

The spirited Diego

2010-09-27T07:13:00.000-07:00

Kalispera Family and Friends!

Last night I noted a small ad in the back of my tourist map for a public stables, with guided tours along the water. It became fixed in my mind, and I would not be denied. Hotel reception rang the place the next morning, and at ten I was installed on the public bus to a small town up the coastline.

The bus stops are few between, stopping more of an 'on-demand' kind of thing, something I figured out only after we'd passed the turnout for the stables by a couple kilometers.... Greatful I'd skipped my morning run, I jogged back to the turnout, then the long dusty road to the ranch. I slipped into the rented jodhpus and riding helmut, and felt quite dashing; may have overstated my equestrian experience a tad.

They saddled up the spirited Diego.

Just me and my guide (a local dude wearing a Harley Davidson tee), we took off at a bright clip. I managed to stay astride, a strong grip on Diego's mane, more than the reins. After a bit we encountered what I considered to be a very large mob of scruffy Greek sheep, and my guide voiced his dismay. Immediately, he began to cut his horse back and forth, herding them in some direction known only to him. On the spirited Diego, I attempted to help and attempted to stay out of the way, alternately scattering sheep and pissing off my horse....

I thought maybe I'd gotten the hang of it when Diego spied the ranch in the distance. In one beat, he took his bit in his teeth and we flew over the hill to the ranch, the sheep, the guide, abandonded. Sigh.

In Greece they enforce that 'get back on the horse' rule, and even though I'd only been humiliated but not fallen, they took my saddle off Diego and cinched it on a school house mare, so fat it barely reached round her middle. This girl knew one gait and one path to the beach, and she took it regardless of the whereabouts of my guide. We hit the shore at her steady walk. My eyes took in the feast of sights around me -- blue skies, blue ocean, white surf, and bronze men. Lots of bronze men. Yes, that's right, this portion of the beach was definitely clothing optional, clearly popular with the old-Greek-naked-man crowd. Can you imagine how much suntan lotion...?? Anyway, my plodding lady went right through the center of it all, naked men skittering nimbly, unencumbered, out of her way. I was the ignored wisp clinging to her chubby sides.

And that is the beginning and the end of my equestrian career on Kos Island. Worth every penny. When I tell the story again, I will have been better at hearding thos friggin sheep :-)

Tomorrow a.m. early boat to Bodrum!

Love T

At Sea

2010-09-26T11:22:00.000-07:00

Hello Friends and Family!

The sound of the waves drugged me with sleep until they grew too loud (or jetlag woke me), whereupon I closed the blinds and slept as the dead until the morning wakeup call completely confused me to my whereabouts. I took in a quick morning jog (feeling very good about myself for that), before I made my way to the boat, Odyssey, which was my occupation for the day.

Aboard Odyssey, the seas were high, the wind rough and I was in my bliss. A morning stop, swimming at the beach of some random island on the itinerary (it has a name, but I never learned it), followed by lounging about on deck, and I was famished. Lunch took the form of lamb kababs, coleslaw salad, and tadziki, which I devoured to the last morsel.

Our next stop was an island famous for its sponges. But rather than shopping, I wandered to an inn and indulged in a small plate of baklava, so sweet it made my teeth ache, and so yummy my compliments to the chef rendered him red with modesty.

I snapped cute pics of fish and kitties (not together) and ended my day at a small cafe on the shoreline specializing in seafood (I had a kabab, fries). A few guys checked me out on the walk back to the hotel... but that might be because I was glowing :-)

Love Tory

PS No worries Mom, no sunburn; I'm wearing 3 layers of sunscreen. Glowing is from contentedness only.

Pictures from my day at sea:

Greetings from Kos!

2010-09-25T10:23:00.000-07:00

An arduous series of airplane cycles, through Toronto (long layover), Athens (delays, delays) is finally rewarded with the hospitality of this special place. Immediately upon arrival on Kos Island, I dived headfirst into a very long, very hot bath. My body restored, I sought sustinence in the form of an evening's meal, at the local pizzaria, 'round the corner. Tazikiki to start, a Greek "Speciality" pizza with a glass of the house red, and an exquisite slice of walnut pie later, I am posting, moments from introducing head to pillow. Sending my love!

Love Tory

Pictures of my hotel, Aktis Art Hotel, Kos Island

Pictures! Basel and Berlin

2010-03-04T09:44:00.000-08:00

Basel's Tinguely Museum

Berlin!

Berlin Wall (Eastside Gallery)

Pictures! Switzerland

2010-03-04T09:32:00.001-08:00

Pictures! Rome

2010-03-04T09:15:00.000-08:00

My Monastery Room

Spanish Steps

Incredible Food

St Peters Cathedral

The Pope!

Pictures! Tallinn, London

2010-03-04T09:00:00.000-08:00

Old Town Tallinn

My London hotel

Eurostar!

Rovaniemi (Lappland in Northern Finland)

2010-02-27T15:34:00.001-08:00

Train Station

Town Square

Snowmobile safari to the Husky sled dogs ranch!

Amazing views of the countryside

Pictures! Helsinki

2010-02-27T15:26:00.000-08:00

Streets of Helsinki

Olympic Tower in Helsinki

Helsinki Churches

Pictures! Stockholm, Ferry, Riga

2010-02-25T16:19:00.000-08:00

Stockholm

Ferry to Riga

Ferry nightclub!

Birthday flowers!!

Riga

Riga Skating Rink!

Midday pick-me-up in Riga!

Pictures! Valencia, Gambia Beach, Madrid, Lisbon

2010-02-25T16:01:00.001-08:00

Valencia Train Station

Gambia Beach

Madrid Don Quixote

Madrid pretty fountain

Lisbon

Pretty sidewalk

Belam Fortress

Navigator Monument

Pirates!!

Standing on Portugal on the big sidewalk map of the world!

Home again, Home again

2010-02-23T15:22:00.000-08:00

I made it home, safe and sound. Murray picked me up from the airport -- gosh, it was great to see his shining face again.

Aunt Judi welcomed me home and helped me explode my luggage to unearth treasures from my journey. My little kitties are warm and fluffy. The first thing I did was start a load of laundry. And to take a nice long bath. It is an incredible thing to travel to distant shores, and an poignant thing to come home again at the end.

I think I will sleep for a week.

Love T

Last night in Paris

2010-02-22T07:09:00.000-08:00

Today is my last night, and fittingly I am back in Paris where it all began. The last month has flown by in a blur.... Was that me walking on the beach with the seagulls and white sand? Did I really sing karaoke on a ferry? Was that me on that snowmobile, holding on for dear life? I asked Santa for a job? I skiied?!

It has meant the world to me to share my adventures with you as I lived it, day by day. The best part about getting home will be to see each of you again. Yes, that and squeezing my sweet kitties, sleeping with my own pillow... and to not have to pay to use the toilet any more. (Bathrooms should not be a for profit enterprise. My opinion.)

Thank you again most exceptionally to Cousin Noah and Aunt Judi for caring for my sweet boys all this time to let me be away without worry. You are truly generous souls and I am so greatful to you for this tremendous service.

I will post from home that I have arrived safe and sound, and will try to toss up some pics too. Until I see you all again, I bid you a fond adieu.

Love T

Checkpoint Charlie

2010-02-21T05:32:00.000-08:00

Today I got up early to cram an accumulation of nearly five weeks worth of stuff into my pack. I find it impressive, how much can go into a stuffsack when proper motivation and muscle is applied. It was serious exercise tromping up and down flights of stairs to the train station to deposit my pack at Left Luggage for the day. But freed from my bag, I made a bee-line (okay, after a quick stop at Starbucks) to tour the Checkpoint Charlie museum.

The museum has expanded since the wall came down, but it still contains an eclectic mix of history, kitch, and personal stories of GDR citizens who crossed the wall (some made it, some tragically died trying). It was really moving. They still have the little VW Bug used to smuggle people out, folded into a tiny hidden compartment. In retrospect, do you think they regretted using such a small car??

They were selling chunks of the wall in the museum gift shop. I really wanted one... but introducing a heavy piece of concrete into my already bulging pack-- well, it might be the straw that broke that camel. I got a tee shirt instead :-)

My next stop was the East Gallery, a mile long section of the wall they preserved intact and invited artists from all over the world to paint. I walked the length and snapped cool pics. I walked the rest of the way back to Alexanderplatz (regretted that when my toes went numb from the cold, but hey). Fortunately, schnitzel with pommes frites --and an excellent Berliner beer-- warmed me right up.

I have a few hours left before I have to head to the Hauptbahnhof to catch my overnight train to Paris, and tomorrow is my last day before returning home... I try not to think about that. But I think about all of you frequently and am sending you my love and good thoughts!

Love T

Berlin

2010-02-20T09:09:00.001-08:00

Other places are about art maybe, or the view, or the shopping... but Berlin is absolutely a city of history.

First, I am rooming in a hotel located near Alexander Platz in the old Ost Berlin sector (not far from the famous TV tower). That, in and of itself, just blows my mind since the last time I was here, the wall divided the city and the eastern (Soviet) sector was a scary, tense passage through the checkpoint. But now, Ost Berlin is the hip district, the city center, and awash with tourists like myself, despite the ice and snow and slush.

But it is such fun to FINALLY be able to speak the local language, even if everyone still answers me back in English. You would think, since I can ask for directions whenever I need, that I wouldnt get lost so often, but not the case.... Figures.

This morning, I dumped my bulging pack at my hotel, and headed out onto the streets for a quick look about. I was just trying to figure out the difference between the SBahn and the UBahn when a crowd started to gather, English speakers like myself. It was a meeting point for an English language walking tour, so I joined right in. Yep, I leaped right in without considering that four hours walking the streets of Berlin -- the Brandenburg Gate, the Jewish memorial, Checkpoint Charlie, etc, etc, -- might get a tad chilly. Umm. Yes. Just a little. By the end of the third hour (Hitlers Bunker) I was a friggin popcicle. When we reached the hotel where Michael Jackson dangled his baby out the window, I my fingers and toes were painful stubs and I was looking for a way to dodge out without being noticed....

Sigh.

I stuck it out to the bitter(ly cold) end but spent my lunch money instead on a swift taxi back to my hotel where I steamed all the windows and used nearly all the water in their hot water tank.

Blissfully reheated, I wandered around the "hipster" district until my hunger caused me to start lingering more over the cafe menus than the stylish clothing shops (that is NOT like me at all!). So now I am now absolutely famished and am off to discover a place to dine. And I send you all my love.

Love T

Travel day

2010-02-19T09:08:00.000-08:00

I am at a McDonalds iinternet cafe: crapppy keyboard but a fraction of the cost of internet in Grindelwald!

This morning I caught an early train to Interlaken where I ditched my bag andd took a long stroll throuugh town between the train stations. To my delight I foundd a fondou place that served single portions and had a rich and decadent lunch. So yummy! Espppecially the burnt bits at the bottom of the pot :-)

Two hour train and I ariived in Basel, a quirky town with personaliy to spare. I worked off some off my lunch wandering lost in thhe old town before a nice hotel lady pointed me to thhe bus to the Tinguely Museuum, recommended in my guidebook. This Basel artist created cool moving sculptures out of industrial scrap and spare household objects. You stand on a little red dot to animate the thing, spin and shuddder andd make squeeky noises. Really fun, hard to photo.

Tonight I am on the ovvernight train to Berlin.

Love you! T

Snow and water

2010-02-18T07:28:00.000-08:00

This morning I took careful inventory of all my moving parts -- abused by yesterday's exertions and four weeks on the road. But after consideration I pronounced myself sound, and prescribed two ibuproven with my morning coffee.

The slopes were less crowded today and the sun was out. I skiied through occasional fog banks to pristine views. I hit all my favorite runs from yesterday ... they seemed easier today for some reason :-) I called it a day when my quivering legs could take it no more, and skiied the long way down to the base of the gondola.

I was wearz and got a pretty sunburn (less cutouts the exact shape of my sunglasses), so I dropped off my gear and headed off to the sports center to avail myself of the sauna. With the ticket came access to the swimming pool and I took a nice long dip, swimming back and forth and pretending I really could swim (even though I've never been particularly good at it).

When I was completely tuckered, I headed to the sauna only to find it was strictly 'swimsuits verboten'.

Zipes. Hmmm. Yep.

Naked.

But boy did I really want that sauna and the place seemed deserted, so I discretely shed my suit, dropped my towel at the entrance and scurried in. I nearly jumped out of my skin to find another person there but she was a lady and was repine on the top shelf so I skidded to the far side and stretched out. The place smelled like cedar and mint. Absolute heaven.

Around five minutes later, the swim guard / manager guy opened the door and started talking to me! I couldn't understand a word he was saying and I would have turned beet red if not for my advanced sunburn and the sauna's heat. He finally switched to English: I had to lay on my towel, rather than on the bare wood. My bad.

I laid out my towel and resumed my repose until another sauna customer (a guy) walked in. He was naked as the day he was born. That was enough for me, and I raced out after a polite interval. :-)

Tonight I am going to treat myself to a real Swiss dinner (I have been subsidizing my skiing habit by eating out of the grocery store). Fondue is only available for two, so I will have to settle for a nice raclette or wurst. Not too shabby.

Love T

Packed Powder

2010-02-17T06:19:00.000-08:00

I had to give myself a serious pep talk this morning to tug on my stocking cap, heavy jacket, long johns, and to pull on the stiff enormous ski boots I rented yesterday evening. I lumbered down the stairs of my hotel, Frankenstein-lurching, picked up my skis from the ski room and walked up the block to catch the gondola. The long wait in line allowed my adrenaline to fall to a reasonable level, and I was on the slopes!

It took me a few runs to get my sea-legs (so to speak), but after that I was off to the races, just like Murray promised. I stuck to the easy routes (which were a lot more challenging than the easy routes back home- no School Marm on these trails), and it took me a good couple minutes sliding sideways down the first run before I had the courage to point my skis downhill to execute a left turn. But once that first turn was successfully accomplished, the rest (left and right) came as a breeze. I ate a hearty lunch outdoors on the mountain (goulash suppe, my favorite) and took in a few more runs before the snow started to get icy and I started to get seriously tuckered.

I had just enough energy left to race to the ski place to extend the loan on my skis for one more day. Bet I sleep good tonight :-)

Love T

Switzerland

2010-02-16T07:02:00.000-08:00

Extraordinary as it seems to me, I woke up this morning in big, industrial Milan and now I am hanging out in a ski town in central Switzerland! I am constantly confusing languages, sometimes speaking in German, sometimes Italian, Spanish, and maybe even a Portugese word slips in now and again. Since I speak barely 25 words in any of those tongues (except German, which is pathetically rusty). It is very confusing to the locals who beg me to speak in English....!

Grindelwald is a familiar spot, since Mom, Murray and I traveled here frequently when we were younger. Not much has changed; it is still charming and picturesque and quitissentially Swiss. Practically everyone on the streets are calling it a night, lugging skis and poles, and searching out the best spot for some steaming hot chocolate.

I have checked out the local joints and found a spot to rent skis too -- if I can get up the courage to strap them to my weary feat and toss myself down a slippery slope. Murray says it all comes back to you: the schussing and snow plow. But after a month of a big pack strapped to my back, my wee knees are jelly and it quivers my timbers, the idea of taking that tram up hundreds of feet in the air! But it will be an unforgettable adventure and I cannot resist.

Aunt Judi reports at dinner with M&N that she is well and my boys are doing fine (and apparently not driving her too crazy, thank goodness). I miss their sweet purrs. I miss you all as well and am sending you my good thoughts. I return in one week, and though it seems I am really getting the hang of this traveling thing, I am looking forward to that exquisite feeling of coming home.

Love T

Milan

2010-02-15T06:06:00.000-08:00

First class in Italian trains is much better than second class, and with my EurRail, my short ride to Milan this morning was just a breeze.

I took the metro to my hotel, but it was somehow loads more confusing than any I have been in before, and I rode the wrong direction -- twice. Then on steet level, I walked the wrong direction -- twice -- before finally finding my hotel, which is a dump (and at 60 euros a night, that's an outrage!). I confess I only came to Milan since the overnight train service to Switzerland from Rome had been discontinued, but I am making the best of it. Milan is known for fashion, right? So off I went to the famous (according to my guidebook) rectangle of streets that are Milan's high fashion district.

I lasted two of the legs of the rectangle before I got tired of looking at 500 euro scarfs (!), and headed toward the Duomo, Milan's spectacular gothic cathedral. In the low mist of the city, it looked etherial.

And nearby, the shops are not as high fashion, but definitely closer to my price range. On my to-do list for this trip (along with Abba in Stockholm, snow angel on the Arctic Circle) is to buy a pair of shoes in Milan. Since there are thousands of shoe shops, it shouldn't be hard (though I really hate shoe shopping, so maybe I will settle for getting new socks).

Tomorrow I have my morning train to Gimmelwald, Switzerland.

Love you!

Tory

A day for blessings

2010-02-14T10:06:00.000-08:00

Today was a day for blessings! I rose early and avoided the lines to tour St Peters Basilica. I snapped countless pics and wandered around the truly spectacular interior. I met an English language guide (a really nice lady from Ohio), who gave me a little mini-tour, and described the history and what all the popes buried in the nave were noted for having done. I was really impressed that it is a working church; there was a priest there giving blessings to the children, and others hearing confessions, and lots of nuns walking about (they all wear sensible shoes, just like in the movies!)

I wandered down to the Tiber for a while too but was back in the main courtyard just in time for Pope Benedict to give his blessing to the thousands that had gathered. He spoke for about 10 minutes (in Italian)-- I understood the word Beatitudes a couple of times, so I think it may have been on them? Anyway, after he said Amen, he started speaking in English! He gave a blessing to those of us assembled and those whom they hold in their hearts-- that would be every one of you, my friends and family, who are so dear to me. I was very moved, and felt very blessed :-)

After pizza for lunch, I balanced the religious history with a visit to Rome's largest Jewish Synagogue, and the area of the old Jewish Ghetto. I snapped pics of the Kosher Italian food signs.

And finally I found Trevi Fountain, took my reserved coin (a tuppence piece left over from London), and tossed it into the fountain requesting for my true heart's desire. And wouldn't you know but that not 15 minutes later, it delivered: I found a self service laundramat! If I have time, I'm going to go back with maybe like a couple Euros or so :-)

But right now, I'm off to find another pizzaria, and am sending you my love. Tomorrow I am scheduled to quit Rome's banks for Milan.

Love T

All Roads lead to ...

2010-02-13T08:47:00.001-08:00

All roads lead to ROME! Gosh, I can hardly believe I made it here.

It was a long haul, and I had gotten a little soft, spoiled by the deluxe accomodations onboard the Finnish trains. This Italian train was a bit more basic. The bunks were stacked three to a side, six people in the tiny compartment, like so many fillets of sardine. And every berth was occupied, three guys and three of us girls (mixed coaches, another first). I made good friends with a Dutch lady, a theology student on her way with a group to tour Rome. And I treated myself to dinner on the train, notable more for its cost than the quality of the cuisine (served on paper plates). The bunks were so hard, I imagined myself as comfortable snoozing on my own dining room table at home....

But we arrived safe and sound (and all belongings intact -- thank goodness!!). Fueled by the second half of a small back of potato chips and a tepid espresso, I was off to wander the streets of Rome. First, I navigated my way to my accomodations-- a charming monestary right on the wall surrounding the Vatican. The nun / receptionist spoke no English, and barefoot probably didn't even clear 5 foot, but she was awfully nice and my room is simple but comfy.

I took the metro to the Spanish Steps, which I remember so well from our family EurRail trip to Rome years ago. They were smaller than I remembered, but there was still a McDonalds nearby and lots of people lounging and snapping pics. And I wandered the streets admiring the fashions and reveling in the sunshine (it's positively balmy). Next I took the metro two stops to see the Trevi Fountain. I surfaced and walked for a while, and arrived back at the Spanish Steps, having missed the friggin fountain entirely! Chagrin. Next time, I will take care not to leave my city map at one of the fashion shops along the way :-)

Goodnight dear friends and family. I am off to find a pizzaria with my name on it. I might accidently end up at Spanish Steps again, but that would be okay too :-)

Love T

Chunnel!

2010-02-12T07:59:00.000-08:00

I only have a few minutes before I have to dash off to catch my train to Rome, where I plan to slow my itinerary a bit and linger for three days. Heaven!

This morning I was up with the early birds thanks to the 2 hour time change and hungry again, even after a hearty meal of beef stew and chips and a British ale. After breakfast at my hotel I was off to the Eurostar for my ride on the chunnel! I expected it to be fancier or somehow more historic, but the train was pretty ordinary (except for the going under the English Channel part). I made it an extra special occasion by eating my picnic of goodies, indulging in a glass of red wine, and reading the opening chapters of Dickens Tale of Two Cities, until it put me to sleep :-)

Now I have just a few hours to grab a snack and hurry off for my long haul overnight train to Rome, so I will sign off and send you my love!

Love T

London Calling

2010-02-11T11:20:00.000-08:00

After a nice breakfast in Tallinn I was off to the airport bound for London. I was really excited to change out of my snowboots and tuck away my long underwear for awhile. I arrived in London and made a lengthy commute into the city via regional rail and then the tube, and found my hotel with no problem. It is so nice to be able to speak English!! I had missed lunch entirely and was really hungry... but I am only in London for just tonight! Priorities must be observed.

So, I quizzed the receptionist, and he happily supplied me with directions to the fashion district on Oxford street. He indicated it was maybe 15 minutes on foot... I made it in 10.

Wow! Not as fashion forward as Paris or Barcelona, maybe, but this city has a life of its own! The people were out on the streets hussling and bussling, and I took careful note at the intersections for to look right or look left. Traffic here is crazy. After my forray into the retail world -- not too expensive, mindful always of the limitations of my luggage, let alone my budget -- I undertook the unwinding of myself back to my hotel.

That is when I discovered Lancaster is a different word than Leinster, and that there is a Craven Hill, Craven Terrace, and not one but three portions of Craven Hill Gardens (the street my hotel is on) none of which are connected... sigh. It took my last bit of energy to drop by the hotel and make my way to the restaurant area, whereupon I stumbled (after asking directions three times) on this lovely internet cafe. Grin!

So now I finally am off to seek sustinence in the pubs of London. Tomorrow is a major travel day-- Chunnel to Paris (reading Dickens' A Tale of Two Cities the whole way) then from Paris, an evening departure for the overnight train to Rome.

Love you and miss you and am sending you the travelers wisdom I gained today: it is always a good thing to look BOTH ways before venturing into the streets (and always bring a good map) :-)

Estonia!

2010-02-10T09:29:00.000-08:00

After a light dinner at the McD´s in Rovaniemi (the northermost branch), I had just enough time to catch the train back to Helsinki. My navigational skills were much improved by following the Aussie from the snowmobile earlier in the day -- we were booked on the same train, plus the same ferry to Tallinn, and compared travel stories while hanging out waiting.

The short ferry to Helsinki was delightfully uneventful (it still makes me nervous plowing through ice in a cruise ship), and after checking in at my hostel, I was off to explore Old Town Tallinn. It was brilliantly sunny. And -7 degrees.

I lasted about 2 hours before I had to come scurrying back to my room, my fingers frozen to little red points at the end of my coat sleeves. I can´t say that I saw very much -- I was too cold to do serious sightseeing in the churches and old fortress, so I just went in and out of all the craft and souveineer shops.. and was perfectly contented:-)

Back in my room I showered away 2 days worth of accumulated dirt and grime, used fully one quarter of the bottle of shampoo I bought in Portugal, and burrowed under the covers for a quick rest that lasted 3 hours. Ahhhhhhh.

Now I am fully restored and hungry, so I am off to forrage for dinner. I love you and am thinking of you! Thanks again for the great email Ryan. By the way, the snow in DC must have been really something; it is all everyone is talking about over here.

I am just looking forward to walking on pavement again someday soon. Tomorrow, my flight to London!

Love T

Rovaniemi

2010-02-09T07:48:00.000-08:00

Today was all about adventure as I arrived this morning in Rovaniemi, in the north of Finland, right on the Arctic Circle (according to Dad I´m a blue-nose now!) Some other tourists with a great sense of direction and I made our way to the information office just in time to sign up for a snowmobile tour. They dressed us up in snowmobile gear -- full snow suit, thick socks and boots, hat, mittens, etc, etc. I looked like a big orange snowman by the time we were finished. And then off of the snowmobiles! I was paired with an Aussie with a lead foot. Gosh we just flew! We went on the river (frozen solid) and then up into the woods where we stopped to thaw out and visit a Siberian Husky ranch. There, we each got a turn going around the pasture on the dog sled -- fortunately, the dogs were well trained and didn't require I actually steer the thing since I was holding on for dear life! We got to see the puppies and I fell instantly in love with a half dozen or so of them. Darling little faces! On our return, it was my turn to drive. WOW! What a rush! I surprised myself with how much I enjoyed the speed and the bumps and the adrenaline coursing through my veins! After a hearty lunch (all of this was before lunch!) I made my way to the Arctic Circle point and Santa´s village. It was really neat. I got to meet Santa and we chatted for quite a while. He had visited Seattle recently, he said, about two months ago... tee hee hee. He must get a kick out of that joke with every visitor! I told him I had been a very good girl, and though I contemplated asking for world peace, I ended up just asking for a job. That´s not too selfish is it? Anyway, he said he´d send his elves to go networking for me :-) (I only hope he´s not going to wait until Christmas to deliver....)

The best part of Santa´s village was the post office. They had an exhibit of all the letters to Santa that had been delivered. They said all the letters posted to Santa are channeled to Rovaniemi. Volunteers open the letters and collect them by country. The USA had a big stack. Alphabetically next to it, Uganda even had a few in there!

I have to dash but I am sending you my love! Overnight train tonight is back to Helsinki so I can catch the quick ferry hop to Tallinn!

Love T

Churches

2010-02-08T06:56:00.000-08:00

Hey! Since it´s Monday and all the museums were closed, today was all about visiting Helsinki´s churches. There is a great variety, including one that is blasted out of the bedrock, underground. The Orthodox architecture is really beautiful; this city reminds me of St Petersburg, with wide boulevards and tall, even buildings of every color. I bought a tourist card on the tram system and loved roaming the streets between stops, drinking in the atmosphere. But, since it has been snowing all day, I frequently ducked into shops and cafes to warm up my poor fingers and toes. Fortunately, the coffee is rich and strong, and served very, very hot.

I also made it to the top of the Olympic tower (built for the games in the 40´s), from which I snapped beautiful panoramics and cheezy shots of me mugging it for the camera.

As much as I would love to linger days in Helsinki, I have a train leaving in just a few hours for Rovaniemi, right on the Arctic Circle, and (reportedly) terrestrial home to Santa Claus.

I am excited to see if I made the good girl list, or if I need to straighten up my act!

Love you,

T

Finland!

2010-02-07T09:52:00.000-08:00

Last night's boat was the best yet. It was a regular cruise ship, and crowded with merry makers of a multitude of nationalities. I've stopped trying to distinguish Finnish from Swedish, but I could detect Russian whereever I went. The ship was 12 floors, the 7th a grand Promenade with ceiling open to the 12th floor and glass elevators, and restaurants and shops lining the way. Swanky! There was a string quartet playing along the row, and even a tightrope act above the promenade(which I bet doesn't do very well in rough seas!).

I roomed with a young Russian woman, just graduated college, and two other ladies. The young woman spoke exceptional English, and we really hit it off, having a love for travel in common. Underway, she and I visited the sauna onboard, to take the chill off our weary bones. I was overdressed in my bathing suit, but it felt so wonderful to be warm (hot even). Everyone was congenial and relaxed and contented (or maybe that was just me), and the experience was unmatched. In the evening I hung out at an Irish pub on the Promenade and listened to a Swedish guitar player belt out accustic versions of Rolling Stones, Simon & Garfunkle, the Beetles, and the Beach Boys hits. Classic.

And now I am in Finland! A light snow was falling as we docked and I checked into the posh Hotel Haven. They admitted me to my room immediately, and I spent nearly half an hour under the shower, feeling clean for the first time in days. I had decided this place would be a rest stop, and after wandering the streets for a bit I put myself to bed and slept for hours. Everything in Helsinki is terribly expensive-- my dinner not excluded-- but I am wonderfully contented with a belly filled with steamed vegetables, mushroom stuffed cabbage rolls, and vanilla ice cream :-)

Thank you again for the notes and reminders of home. I love you all so much and am dragging you along to all the tourist spots with me in my heart. I am taking tons of photos but haven't found a place yet to send them. I will keep looking :-)

Love T

More about boats

2010-02-06T05:45:00.000-08:00

I am really loving traveling on boats! I met some really interesting folks on my mini-cruise back to Stockholm. It reminds me how talking to people you would not otherwise meet makes each experiece infinitely more rich and memorable than just for the buildings and postcard views :-)

This morning arrived in Stockholm and just had a short day to spend before I zip off to my ferry bound for Helsinki. The ferry crossing was much more gentle this time, and I awoke in the morning to the roar of our boat grinding through ice-- sounded like rumbling thunder. I dropped my bag in left luggage at the station and walked a long icy boulevard to a different island in Stockholm to visit the Vasa Museum.

I learned the Vasa was a warship built some time in the 1600s for battle against Poland (Sweden´s enemy at the time). The ship was huge, beautifully carved, and held 450 people (soldiers plus crew). With great fanfare it was launched into Stockholm harbor. And it went a short way no problem before it started to sort of list a bit to the right.... then it righted itself... and then listed to the left. Somehow it got all the way into the channel when a big gust of wind filled the sails, and the thing keeled over completely and promptly sank.

Oops!

Three hundred years later, the industrious Swedes dug it out of the mud and mire at the bottom of the channel and preserved it, hull to keel. It is now a museum, with the whole ship suspended into open space. It was really cool!

I walked by a hundred or so smorgesbord cafes before I found excellent Thai takeout for lunch -- pickled herring is simply not in my itinerary. Found it just in time too, as my poor wee fingers were popsicles by then. My cheeks are always rosy :-)

I am off to catch the ferry, but I am thinking of you all and wishing you well!

Love T

My day in Riga

2010-02-05T05:30:00.000-08:00

I am just about to sprint off to catch my ferry back to Helsinki, but I have just enough time to tell you I am well and somewhat thawing out :-)

Riga treated me exceptionally well for my birthday abroad. I took myself to a traditional restaurant for an authentic Latvian dinner (steak and potatoes -- I love this place!), and vanilla ice cream with chocolate sprinkles for dessert. Just scrumptuous, after some sketchy meals Ive had the past few days. After dinner, I decided to burn off some of those extra calories by going ice skating at the outdoor rink in the open square just a few yards from my hotel. It was really embarassing, but I surprised myself by how much fun I had, clinging to the rail as I got up as much speed as I dared. The little kids, half my height, were wizzing by and yucking it up... but then, so was I!

This morning I was half frozen by the end of my walking tour of Old Town Riga, and ready for hot coffee and lunch. Since then, Ive been wandering the streets, especially admiring the amber jewelry shops, of which there are hundreds.

For today I bid you adieu. Love you!

Love T

Tears of Happiness (the best kind)

2010-02-04T04:59:00.000-08:00

Hey everyone!

Imagine if you will: I arrived this morning at the port of Riga. It was a one mile trudge on 12 inches of powder, on slushy icy cobblestone streets, my pack on my back the whole way (I biffed it sideways into a snow bank at one point -- very embarrassing). Cold and winded, I eventually found my sweet hotel, checked in, and opened the door to my room for the night. And what greeted me when I walked in was a huge bouquet of yellow daffodils and daisies and an extraordinary note written in a foreign hand: Dear Tory, Happy Birthday! Love Mom and Dad.

I was so moved I hugged the stuffing out of the receptionist, whom I caught a little off guard, and cried tears of happiness... the best kind. Thank you, thank you Mom and Dad. I have no idea how you could coordinate to have a spring bouquet arrive in Latvia in my room on this special day but it makes me love you and miss you all the more! They are exquisite!

Here is how I spent the last day of my (gulp) 39th year:

The snow began in earnest after I left the (rather dull) Nobel museum, and by the time I made the long hike back to my hotel, my day bag had frozen shut. I didn't even know Velcro could freeze, but there you go. I made it to the shuttle bus to the ferry terminal with seconds to spare.

The ferry was not a commuter ferry; rather, it was more like a small cruise ship. There were four restaurants on board, a casino, a night club and lounge. I hung out in the lounge to take in the show. The ferry was pretty empty but a small audience gathered. The house band was a Bulgarian group which played exclusively American popular music from the 40s to the 90s. They opened with Fly me to the Moon, then Hound Dog, and so it went. The mix was eclectic, and not a little surreal. Their rendition of Chers Do You Believe in Life After Love nearly brought down the house.

To add to the atmosphere, the ferry was celebrating "Russian Week" and between sets, a group of Russian dancers graced the stage. How they kept their balance, I have no idea. The seas of the Baltic were icy, cold, and very rough. The boat creaked from side to side with a definite tilt. I joined our small audience in dancing to the band whenever the house band played a song from the 80s or later. When the show ended, our little group drifted to the Karaoke bar where I ticked another item off my must do list: sing karaoke ABBA in Stockholm. Okay, maybe we were in international waters by then, but proximity counts.

"Thank you for the Music" is now my absolute favorite ABBA song, and a priceless memory :-)

This morning, I awoke to port in Riga, and feel so truly blessed to be entering my 40th year with the exceptional friends and family that I have in each of you. And a special message for my very special brother: HAPPY BIRTHDAY MURRAY! And for the matchless Nikole, whose 40th is not far off, I add a HAPPY BIRTHDAY NIKOLE! And we can all celebrate!

Love T

Brrr! Redux

2010-02-03T03:19:00.000-08:00

Hey everyone! I´m not sure what happened to my post from yesterday (most likely user error -- my user error), so pardon if I repeat.

I am writing from Stockholm today, and Sweden is really cool! Yesterday, I flew out of Lisbon at o-dark-early. It was so sad to say goodbye to Portugal. I met wonderful people, locals and tourists alike, and I am already planning to return....

But I was so excited to be on my way to Scandanavia! Back in Lisbon, I put on my layers and my snowboots so I would be prepared. My long underwear were itching the whole 4 hour flight. But I was greatful for extra clothes when I arrived: Stockholm is gorgeous, vibrant, and maybe just a tad bit chilly (understatement!). The streets are snowy and when the wind blows I imagine it is straight off the north pole. All the cars are Volvos and Saabs. The art is incredible and everything is exceptionally expensive except for vodka :-)

My hotel was really swanky -- Bopcha would have appreciated the set of dumbells and workout video for guests use in every room! The kind reception staff assisted me in finding the terminal station so I could buy my ferry tickets for tonight´s departure and I saved money finding a gem of a Mexican takeout place not far from my hotel for dinner :-)

This afternoon, I am all bundled up and having fun exploring the old town, an island just south of the Central Station. It´s full of interesting cafes and shops and every street is narrow and picturesque. The Nobel museum is somewhere on this island and I am determined to locate it-- even if I have to walk into every stylish dress shop to find it :-)

Tonight I am off to Riga!

Love T

A few necessarios...

2010-02-01T06:23:00.000-08:00

Ola everyone!

You all know I'm not what you would call an adventurous eater, right? I mean, I've toured exceptional culinary destinations only to venture forward with mushroom pizza at every stop. But last night, I was feeling uncharacteristically bold, and I took my hotel receptionist's recommendation for an authentic meal: Portugese stew. I love stew, and so long as it was't seafood (which I hate) I figured it would be sort of adventurous.

I went to the place recommended (the opposite direction of the tourist square). It had maybe half a dozen tables, and soccer on the TV. I had no idea how to even order this dish, but there was a guy eating it a few tables over, so I pointed to his bowl and said 'yes'. (This is really embarassing, in retrospect). Anyway, it seemed to work: after a bit, the waiter brought a huge bowl of savory stew and a huge hunk of bread. I tried a bite. YUMMY!! It was thick and rich and had lots of beans and carrots and cabbage, and bits of meat.... um, yeah, all different kinds of meat. And the closer I looked, more like bits of tripe! Ewww! Gag me! Okay, so I wimped out and from that part of the pot on, I only ate the bits that were positively identifable as non-carnivore. But it was still delicious :-)

This morning I visited an elevator that was designed by a student of Eifel. It didn't really go anywhere but up to a platform with a great view, but I thought it was cool.

This afternoon, I have to take care of a few necessarios: laundry is at the top of the list. Actually, it's a short list. I MUST do laundry or my blue jeans will be able to walk without me. And I don't even want to talk about my socks.

Tomorrow I have an early flight to Stockholm, so I'm off to drink in as much of this sunshine and warmth as I can-- while my skivies are tumbling :-)

Love you, T

Henry the Navigator

2010-01-31T08:42:00.000-08:00

Hey everyone!

My train to Lisbon went off without a hitch, though I was seduced yesterday afternoon by the comfy white couch in the tiny lobby of my hotel and never made it to the Prado. Criminal, I know, but I was getting a little worn out.

But something in the air of Lisbon has restored me. It´s hard to describe, but from the moment I got off the train I have felt like I belonged. The streets are cobblestoned in beautiful mosaics, the architecture a kaleidoscope of colors and styles. And within moments of dropping my pack off at my little blue hotel, I was on the doubledecker tourist bus headed straight for the Henry the Navigator monument.

It was one of the things I have been waiting to see... something about exploring the big wide unknown that thrills my toes. I got great pics. Nearby I wandered through the Belem Tower, sort of a stone fortress built half in the middle ages and half a century or so ago. Next, I went inside the cloisters of an old monestary, and caught the cathedral just as Sunday mass was ending. Vasco da Gama was buried there -- he's the explorer who blazed the trade route to India which put Portugal on the map!

Outside the Navigator was a huge compass mosaic built into the square, with a map of the globe. I stood over the spot where Seattle is, and waved hello to all of you, and missed you very much! But then I stood over the Portugal spot and thought of that yummy empanada I had for lunch.... :-)

Love T

Off to Lisbon!

2010-01-30T07:00:00.000-08:00

Ola everyone!

Today is Saturday and instead of going to the Palace Residence or the Bull Fighting museum, I decided to do what all the rest of Madrid is doing -- walking the broad boulevards and enjoying the sunshine. Whenever I get sleepy (not infrequent in this brilliant sunshine), I head into Starbucks for an espresso to perk me up(there´s one on nearly every street, just like home).

I snapped some great photos of the statue of Cervantes and his famous Don Quixote. A friendly tourist and I swapped cameras so I could be in the shot and then I returned the favor. This is pretty common, but always I am careful to hand over my camera only to someone I think I can out-run ;-)

This evening I hope to go to the Prado Museum which has extensive Spanish artist collections (El Greco and Goya, among many) that should make for a nice end to my tour around Spain.

Tonight I bit Espania a fond adios-- my overnight train for Lisbon leaves at 10 and I´ve got a bunk all reserved. (I sure hope they have air circulation on this train). I´m really excited to see the other side of the coast!

I hope Aunt Judi is doing okay at my house, that my sweet boys are behaving themselves, and that everyone is doing great. I think of you all very often!

Love T

a little from column A, a little from column B...

2010-01-29T09:52:00.000-08:00

Ola mi Familia e Amigos!

Events conspired to make today the best ever, the worst imaginable, and end on a pleasant note. Imagine if you will...

It was a one mile hike from my little Valencia apartment to the main train station. I arrived in just enough time to mail a few postcards before I boarded the train for Madrid. On a whim, I decided to pay the 3 Euro supplement required by my EurRail for a reservation in the first class car. And what I expected to be a dull 3.5 hour train ride became the queen´s treatment for the day. Before we had left the station, I was offered champaigne (why say no?). Then, every 15 minutes or so, the staff came down the aisle with more gifts. A small packet of dates and peanuts? Sure! Coke with lemon? Why not? A hot towel to wash your hands? A full lunch menu with salad, cheese ravioli, fresh bread... more bread, then wine, espresso, it went on and on. Arriving in the station, I said yes for the final time: a small piece of Swiss chocolate-- one for the road. Exquisite.

In Madrid, I negotiated my way on the metro to the hotel I had booked for the night. Up till this point it existed to me only as a webpage, and it´s always such a shock to see it appear in real life before my eyes. My back was aching from lugging my pack so I made my way up the stairs to reception.

Here´s where column B comes in. Reception spoke no English, but I could tell there was a problem... the hotel was overbooked and I had been bumped into another hotel. But see, it is not a problem, because it is only 5 or 10 minutes walk. She wrote the address on a scrap of paper. Just exit the building and turn left...

Yeah right.

I walked left, I walked right, lugging my pack all the way. I followed the directions of friendly locals: turn left at the Arab restaurant (it was Greek); turn right off the circle (it was a square). On and on I went, over an hour, my back aching and sweaty, my spirits flagging. Eventually I triangulated from all the directions and found the place. She´d written the name of the street down wrong, so that´s why it wasn´t on any of the maps. Sigh. I checked into my room, slammed the door and burst into tears. Not my finest moment.

But after my tantrum was over (and the pack was off my back), I launched myself onto the streets of Madrid. Valencia was a sleepy provincial town, but Madrid is alive! There are people everywhere: the good, the bad, and the tourists. I snapped pics of street performers and went window shopping in a vast pedestrian district. Tonight I´ll consult my map and find out where I´ve been :-)

Love T

My vacation

2010-01-28T07:33:00.000-08:00

Hey Friends and Family!

This morning I decided to take a mini-vacation from sightseeing, a total change of pace. I boarded a regional train headed straight south to a small town called Gandia (I´d never heard of it before). Upon arrival I headed straight for the Information Office. They had a stack of dusty brochures on the area monestaries of historical signifance.... and a map of the bus route to the beach. Guess where I went??

The heavy surf pounded on the sand, clean and white and sparkly. The beach was bordered by a long broad boardwalk, along which --judging from the number of cafes and bars-- must be some kind of tourist mecca in the summertime.... But today, I had the beach practically to myself. And that suited me just fine :-)

After lunch at one of the few open establishments (popular for its location, since the food was clearly an afterthought), I strolled along the seashore until the bus arrived to bring me back to the train station, and back ´home´ to Valencia.

Tonight I will cook dinner for myself again in my little kitchen. Last night I made soft tacos, which turned out not half bad. Tonight I hope to improve on my receipe!

Love T

Mmmmm Oranges

2010-01-27T07:37:00.000-08:00

Hey everyone!

I'm in Valencia! I took a train this morning from Barcelona, after spending yesterday evening in my hotel room in bliss, eating take-out meatballs and drinking red wine.

The train ride was just over 3 hours, relaxing and a view of the blue blue coast, and so many orange trees. They went on for ages, row after row. Many of the trees were heavily laden with fruit. I didn't know oranges grew in winter, but they seem to manage nicely here.

The weather is mild and sunny, and Valencia is just as I imagined a Spanish town to be: the pastel colored buildings have iron railings and flower boxes in the windows. There are tapas bars on virtually every corner, and the winding streets open into charming plazas, all of which have cool names. The town is pretty quiet right now.... it seems to become lively even later in the afternoon than Barcelona. If I go much further south I'll be eating dinner at midnight!

I'm roomed in an apartment, rather than a hotel. It has a complete kitchen, and is on the top floor with a pretty view of the roofs of the other buildings around. It's right off a plaza called Conde Bunol, near Plaza San Nicolas.

I am sending you my love!

Love T

Pics

2010-01-26T05:58:00.001-08:00

Murray´s street in Paris

Barcelona outdoor market

Christopher Columbus statue

Sagrada Familia Cathedral

Drew-- check out the snail carving on the cathedral!

Sculpture Garden

Cool Signs

Love Tory

Sunny day

2010-01-26T05:39:00.000-08:00

Hey everyone!

It´s brilliantly sunny and I can feel the warmth radiating into my bones. A welcome change from the rain, and excellent timing for today´s adventures, scoping for sights by Barcelona´s first son, Gaudi.

His influence is everywhere! Even some of the streetlights are designed by him -- no signs are needed; you can pick these lamps out of a crowd. But nothing compared to the wonder and excitement for the Sagrada Familia. This is the cathedral he spent the last 20 years of his life designing, and which is still under construction according to the plans he drew before his death.

The design is unlike anything I´ve ever seen, all about organic shapes and colors, so there was nary a straight line to mar the effect. The interior pillars are towering trees, the capitals like flowing branches. The stained glass is vivid. I took an elevator up one of the towers-- one of the very tall towers. Dizzying heights. It offered a great view of the city and the construction of the central tower. But I confess I was too chicken to walk back down the windy staircase. Instead I stuck my camera over the edge to get a shot of what it looked like :-)

After the cathedral, I took the metro to the Gaudi sculpture garden. What a place! It was colorful and curvy and full of people basking in the sunshine. If I lived here, I would want to come to this place for a picnic every sunny day.

This evening I will wander around the old town near my hotel, like I did yesterday afternoon. There´s tons of retail therapy opportunities for a girl still recovering from Paris sticker-shock.

Noah emailed and said my precious kitties were doing well. I hope Aunt Judi arrives safe and has a okay time while she takes over minding my wee charges. I appreciate them both so much for this tremendous favor.

I´ve got a USB connection at this e-cafe, so I´ll post some more pics.

Buenos Noches!

Love T

Ola!

2010-01-25T02:16:00.000-08:00

Ola! I have arrived in Barcelona and send you my Castilian greetings!

Yesterday, I spent the most wonderful day at the Louvre and snapped many pics. I especially loved the pyramid, which is now the entrance to the museum. It is maybe a little odd in the context of the grandiose structures of the musuem grounds, but it gives the whole place a real cache!

On the long walk back to the hotel to claim my luggage, I suffered a bout of uncertainty about the start of my adventure. But the woman at the hotel, with whom I´d become quite good friends, was encouraging and my excitement was restored. I was off to the train station with time to spare.

And the train was super comfy, and warm too. As a matter of fact, it got positively toasty, with me and 3 other women stacked on top of eachother in the tiny compartment. By 2 am, it was easily over 90 degrees. I couldn´t sleep it was so hot. But the lady below me could sleep just fine: she snored the whole night.

By around 4 am it was unbearable, and then... they must have fixed the ventilation because the fresh air started to flow. Blessed relief! I crashed out for the few hours until we arrived. Oi. I think I aged a week in that 12 hours. But once in the city, WOW! The cool rain felt wonderful. And it is amazing what a double espresso shot will do to your spirits. I am refreshed and excited to start the day! Bet I sleep good tonight.

I am off to see if Gaudi´s architecture really is all that -- I suspect I´ll be impressed :-)

Love T

Off to Barcelona

2010-01-24T02:05:00.000-08:00

Hello all!

Just a quick note, because today I check out of my comfy Parisian digs in exchange for a berth on tonight's overnight train to Barcelona! The butterflies in my tummy are all a flutter. But my timing is excellent -- a few more days in this fashion capitol, and my backpack would explode. Definitely a step up from the normal tourist crap I usually lug back :-)

To occupy the time between now and my evening departure, I was debating between the Louvre and chilling out at the chez chic Paris Starbucks. The museum won out, but maybe I'll stop to get my 'bucks fix on the way.

Till tomorrow!

Love T

All about the hunchback

2010-01-23T11:07:00.001-08:00

Hello Friends & Family!

I am perfecting the art of self-catering: I pick up the fixings for breakfast at the bakeries the night before, eat an exceptional French cuisine lunch, then mine the grocery store dinner for whatever looks good. I have discovered even the grocery French wine is delicious, the salami top notch. Cultural note, all the mustard is dijon -- must be a union thing or something :-)

I toured Notre Dame this morning. I have been there before and still am humbled by the awesome structure. I lit a candle and said a prayer of rememberence and thanksgiving for the lives of dear Granny and Uncle Matt, as I do at every cathedral I visit.

I learned its restoration, centuries ago, was started due to the resurgence in popularity it received after Victor Hugo published The Hunchback of Notre Dame. So it was only fitting I next visit Hugo's home, which was not far away. His apartment had been restored to the original decoration, designed by Hugo himself. All I can say is, it is a good thing he could write; the man had a design sensibility of loud colors and prints that could harm the weak eyed!

I spent the afternoon (after lunch of exceptional pea soup, mushroom risotto and sweet crepes-- made me quiver), strolling down Champes Elysees until I got shopper fatigue and headed home. I bought a hat :-)

Thanks again so much for your notes and emails!

Love Tory

Some pics

2010-01-22T07:37:00.001-08:00

Some pics. I look really cheezy...

The pension

Eifel Tower

Rodin- the thinker

Sacre Coeur

New view

2010-01-22T06:14:00.000-08:00

Hey friends and family!

I love your notes, almost as good as email. To clarify, I wimped out and took the elevator in the UP direction. The top deck was closed (socked in by clouds) so we only made it to the 2nd level. It was totally familiar from our trip -- was it really 25 years ago!

And today, another bright day in Paris! The theme ingredient of the day was the metro, which I navigated with ease to find the matchless Sacre Coeur cathedral. Clear skies, I climbed the stairs (lots and lots of stairs) onto the dome itself, and snapped crazy pics of gargoyles and the skyline of the city.

I have moved from my tiny pension in the 15th district to a lovely spot right in the heart of the city. It's positively posh compared to my last place and I am feeling I was born to live in Paris. My room is on the 5th floor and overlooks the action below. I was really self conscious wearing my big mountain pack onto the Metro but I needent have bothered... at Opera station, a lady boarded my car and started singing. Loudly. Nobody gave me even a passing glance :-)

Well, I am off to explore my new neighborhood, so I bid you adieu! Nikole and Noah, give kisses to my precious Chat Noirs. I miss them so much -- you humans too :-)

Love you all!

Tory

The fine arts

2010-01-21T05:42:00.000-08:00

Hello friends and family!

I have overcome my technical problems -- nothing like a password reset to make the world turn right again :-)

This morning I was an early bird, thanks to a touch of jetlag. I plotted my course to the Eifel Tour over a cappicuno and baguette roll and walked boldly onto the still dark streets of Paris. Unfortunately I was walking in the complete wrong direction... but I snapped some charming photos of the city waking up before I retraced my steps to the direction of the tower.

I arrived just as it opened and what a view! It was pretty quiet, not many tourists yet, but we few snapped pics companionably with eachothers cameras and watched the sky get light. I felt very intrepid, and walked down from the second level (shaking in my boots the whole way).

My next stop was the Rodin Museum which I had heard was having a special exhibit of Rodin and Matisse. They were contemporaries-- and apparently didn't think much of eachother. But side by side, I would give my nod to Matisse :-)

After the museum I wandered the streets in the direction of the river until I was too cold and hungry to continue. I stopped for lunch near the Seine. French onion soup (they call it onion soup here) was so hot and cheesy I nearly cried. And I think I embarassed my waiter with my profusive compliments to the chef for my grilled cheese sandwhich.

I will seek out a chocolate shop to fortify myself for the long trek back to the hotel.

Love you all and thank you so much for your notes!

Tory

The countdown is on!

2010-01-18T20:52:00.000-08:00

All the anticipation and planning for weeks and months is about to bear its fruit. I'm off to Paris tomorrow!

A few stats for the record:
Flight departure: 1:45 pm
Pack: 25 lbs
Packing list:
Mittens
Jeans & Tees
Long Underwear
Bikini
Snow Boots
Flip Flops
Camera, Kindle, and iPod
and...
Me!

Check out the pics. Do I look like an adventurer? Can anyone else see that sort of tilt I have when I'm wearing my pack?

Love Tory